RTW4640YQ1 Roper Washer - Instructions

Replaced the water inlet valve. Easy install… figured it out on my own, but checked the instructional online video to make sure it was done right.

Replacing the part was fairly easy. However it did not resolve the problem. The spin cycle did not activate,leaving my washer full of water. We ordered another Maytag Washer. Hopefully this one doesn't break down for a long time.

chage out part and washer still shake

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.

Figuring out how to take the lid off was the hard part. Took out the old and replaced with new and put lid back on and rehooked up.

very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.

First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!

I taught I might have to replace the whole machine. Then I realize we had power but the latch and lock assembly wasn't locking for the machine to lock and start to wash. Unplug the washer, took the top off of washer, unscrew two bolts from latch assembly, replace latch assembly and two bolts. then unscrew two bolts from lock and replace it. Machine works great now.

Took the back of the control panel off, lifted the top of the washing machine up took off nuts holding the latch lock off, installed the new parts put back together. Piece of cake...because i got the right parts the first time. Thank you PartSelect.

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

I had to remove 3 screws from the back of the washer to be able to lift the top. Then remove 3 screws under the lid which held the switch in, unplug the old part and put the new one in. It was quite sinple. The most difficult part was figuring out you have to slide the top of the washer forward a bit to be able to tilt it up.

Plastic "teeth" at top of agitator were completely worn off, allowing the agitator to spin freely on the shaft. Just remove the bolt that connects the agitator to the drive shaft (located under the top cap of the agitator), remove and replace agitator and you're all set.

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispenser in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!