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Both undercabinet light bulbs blown
1. Open the cover over light bulbs with screwdriver. 2. Pulled out blown bulbs. 3. Inserts new bulbs from Partselect. 4. Tested new bulbs 5. Closed the cover over light bulbs with scvrewdriver. 6. Threw out old bulbs and packaging material.
I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
Parts arrived on the morning of the second day (Saturday) to my pleasant surprise. I opened the nite light access door with a screw driver. Inserted the 2 bulbs without touching the outside of the halogen bulbs. Checked that the bulbs did work and closed the access door. The entire process went quickly and posed very little difficulty.
So my microwave was turning on and operating but nothing would get hot or even Luke warm. After watching several online videos on the problem I replaced the line fuse, diode, and the magnetron. I figured why waste time and just do all 3 while I have the thing apart. I discharged the capacitor with a light bulb first before doing anything. Also had to pop the safety pins on the outside screws to take the metal housing off the microwave. Then Wallah! Everything is working and the food or liquid is hotter than it ever was. The only think that bothers me a little bit is that after the microwave shuts off, I can hear a few crackles or faint pops for about 5 seconds. I wonder if this is anything to worry about. Comments appreciated.
microwave fan will not shut off when door is closed.
Slide thin blade between black plastic cover and microwave door frame and pry up gently to release snap in tabs for the top. They are about 8 inches from each side of the door lengthwise. Same for bottom, except pry down. Next pry outward at each end with blade between the black plastic frame and door frame to release snap in tabs. Doing this may take a bit of jiggle work and be gentle, this frame is fragile. Next there are 5 small phillips screws behind this frame to be removed. 2 bottom 2 top and 1 by door handle. When screws are loosened keep phillips driver holding the screw in, then cup your hand under each screw and catch them when removing them to prevent screws hitting the floor and bouncing to lostville. Next use the thin blade to pry door outer shell from door frame partially. Insert blade between metal frame and plastic shell of door approx. 4 inches from end lengthwise and pry up to release snap in tabs. Repeat for bottom except pry down. The door may separate at handle end now; if not insert blade vertically at handle end about 3 inches from top between metal frame and plastic door shell and pry out and again about 3 inches lower. Use fingers to pry handle end of door apart far enough to see the spring holding the latch. Use fingers or small needlenose pliars to undo spring then slide up plastic latch and remove. Place old spring onto hook in the middle of the new latch, position new latch with latch arms with circles pointing downward back onto metal frame with upper and lower latch guides hooking into metal frame. Push latch down and reconnect spring to metal hook in door frame. Slide new latch up and down a little bit to ensure proper operation. Next squeeze metal frame and outer door shell together until you hear the snap ins snap close. Next put a small bit of wax on end of phillips driver to hold the small screws and reinstall them. Next insert the end of the black plastic frame towards the hinges first into the door then rest the black plastic frame lightly against the microwave door. Press against the top back corner about 4 inches from the hinges and squeeze together the door and the frame. It will make snap sound then repeat for bottom corner. Next squeeze together about 4 inches from handle end at top then bottom to hear snap sound. Finally squeeze the vertical part together behind the handle and make sure black plastic frame is flush with metal door frame and you are done. Again these parts are fragile so take your time.
Oven wouldn't sensor reheat & error code on display
I looked at the exploded pic on your web site to find the location of the sensor. Next I removed the cover by unscrewing 15 screws then swaped the sensor and re assembled! Works great! Fixing it my self I saved at least 150$ and did not have to wait all day for a repair man who probaly would not have the part on the first visit.
Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.
The power was on but the Microwave would not start.
This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors. Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Using a phillips screwdriver I opened the panel in which the two lamps are located and easily removed the lamps. I ordered them through the internet and was pleasantly surprised when I received them the next day.
