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Lamp burnt out
We had our kitchen remodeled; new cabinets, countertop, range, refigerator, microwave, dishwasher and floor.
The cabinets around the microwave were custom made; it looks great but it hid the screws, which had to be unscrewed to remove the grill so the interior light of the microwave could be replaced.
A stand was used to support the microwave as I lowered it so the screws could exposed so the light could be replaced.
The light was replaced, the microwave was raised back into place and all is well. I replaced the bulb while my wife was out of town. When she returned she noticed that the microwave was nice and clean; she was NOT aware of the fact that the bulb was replaced!
Easy to repair. One screw, remove bulbs, replace with new ones, secure screw.
Partselect.com shipped items quickly as promised, provided follow up email confirming receipt of order, a second email confirming shipment & a link to check shipping status.
Would not hesitate to do business with Partselect.com again!!!
It is easy to repair the burnt out bulb if one has the correct bulb. Your website is very user friendly and your service is great. I was not able to replace the bulb at this time because our RV is at the repair shop for some other matters. I am sure the installation of the new bulb will go smoothly. Thanks for asking. Sharry Kiehl
1. Open the cover over light bulbs with screwdriver. 2. Pulled out blown bulbs. 3. Inserts new bulbs from Partselect. 4. Tested new bulbs 5. Closed the cover over light bulbs with scvrewdriver. 6. Threw out old bulbs and packaging material.
I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
Parts arrived on the morning of the second day (Saturday) to my pleasant surprise. I opened the nite light access door with a screw driver. Inserted the 2 bulbs without touching the outside of the halogen bulbs. Checked that the bulbs did work and closed the access door. The entire process went quickly and posed very little difficulty.
I was surprised to find that the turntable for my 10 year old GE Profile microwave/convection oven was not readily available at my local GE retailer. I ordered the part from this website hoping that my order would be filled. I received an immediate response from customer service and the part was on my front doorstep in under 1 week! I would order from this website again!
microwave fan will not shut off when door is closed.
Slide thin blade between black plastic cover and microwave door frame and pry up gently to release snap in tabs for the top. They are about 8 inches from each side of the door lengthwise. Same for bottom, except pry down. Next pry outward at each end with blade between the black plastic frame and door frame to release snap in tabs. Doing this may take a bit of jiggle work and be gentle, this frame is fragile. Next there are 5 small phillips screws behind this frame to be removed. 2 bottom 2 top and 1 by door handle. When screws are loosened keep phillips driver holding the screw in, then cup your hand under each screw and catch them when removing them to prevent screws hitting the floor and bouncing to lostville. Next use the thin blade to pry door outer shell from door frame partially. Insert blade between metal frame and plastic shell of door approx. 4 inches from end lengthwise and pry up to release snap in tabs. Repeat for bottom except pry down. The door may separate at handle end now; if not insert blade vertically at handle end about 3 inches from top between metal frame and plastic door shell and pry out and again about 3 inches lower. Use fingers to pry handle end of door apart far enough to see the spring holding the latch. Use fingers or small needlenose pliars to undo spring then slide up plastic latch and remove. Place old spring onto hook in the middle of the new latch, position new latch with latch arms with circles pointing downward back onto metal frame with upper and lower latch guides hooking into metal frame. Push latch down and reconnect spring to metal hook in door frame. Slide new latch up and down a little bit to ensure proper operation. Next squeeze metal frame and outer door shell together until you hear the snap ins snap close. Next put a small bit of wax on end of phillips driver to hold the small screws and reinstall them. Next insert the end of the black plastic frame towards the hinges first into the door then rest the black plastic frame lightly against the microwave door. Press against the top back corner about 4 inches from the hinges and squeeze together the door and the frame. It will make snap sound then repeat for bottom corner. Next squeeze together about 4 inches from handle end at top then bottom to hear snap sound. Finally squeeze the vertical part together behind the handle and make sure black plastic frame is flush with metal door frame and you are done. Again these parts are fragile so take your time.
Oven wouldn't sensor reheat & error code on display
I looked at the exploded pic on your web site to find the location of the sensor. Next I removed the cover by unscrewing 15 screws then swaped the sensor and re assembled! Works great! Fixing it my self I saved at least 150$ and did not have to wait all day for a repair man who probaly would not have the part on the first visit.
Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.
The power was on but the Microwave would not start.
This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors. Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.
