NTW5500TQ1 Amana Washer - Instructions

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.

Removed the softerner dispenser and the inner cap and seal. Removed the mounting bolt. Pulled on Auger and entire agitator came out. I needed to separate the parts. It said to stand on the bottom and pull on the top. I am an "older" woman and after wrestling with it for an hour without success I waited for my nephew to come by to separate the two pieces. When he did, it popped apart and all the parts went flying. Poor guy thought he had broken it. After conviencing him that that was what I wanted it to do, he left. Dirrections weren't very clear as to what went on first and I didn't have the convience of seeing it before it flew apart. Finally put it together and replaced the bolt. To no avail, something was wrong. My sister was making the same repair at her house across the street so we double teamed it. She came over and told me that I needed to put the Bottom agitator in the machine, then the spacer thrust, then the auger, then the assembled cam and cam dogs, then the bolt. All went well and was working.......so we thought. Started a washer load and the washer started leaking water. Don't know why, still don't know why. All I did was remove everything, put it back the very same way, and it hasn't leaked since. Go figure!

First I loosened the 2 screws on the outside of the top control assembly with a philips screwdriver. Then I took out the 2 other screws toward the top on the back with a socketwrench.Next I removed the top so I could access the switch. After that I removed the broken switch and unhooked from wire hareness. I then hooked up the new switch and snapped into place. Last I put the top back on and screwed into place.

Removed bolt in center of agitator then slid agitator straight up and out replaced the dogs and the other parts that came with the cam kit i also replaced a few of the other parts that wear in the agitator ,you can actually re-cut the teeth on the dogs with a razor so that they will work again ,but new parts are very reasonably priced and the parts arrived very quickly the next day .

Remove the nut from the top of the motor shift inside of wsher. then remove the wire harness plug. Take out three bolts side the shaft and motor out. Replace clutch and install in reverse order.

Put clamps on hose end and then used some dishsoap on the inside of the hose to make pushing them into place easier once in place I placed the clamp in correct spot and used a screwdriver to tighten the clamps.

removed two screws and atc knob. swung control panel out. unplugged atc switch. pushed little tab down and turned the switch. it popped out and I put the new one in. plugged the cable back in. repositioned the control panel. replaced the atc knob and turned it to rinse. Voila!!! it works.

Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towards me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order

Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

Removed the softner dispenser and lifted up the plastic piece under that. Used a 9/16th socket with a long extension and unscrewed the center bolt.
Lifted the entire agitator parts off and out.
Next had to get husband to separate the top from the bottom, it was really hard for me. I am a woman but not weak!!
Replace the washer and the other 2 parts, and put it back together and it all took about 15 to 20 minutes.

Easy repair, even for a woman!!!

This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tried removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.

placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright

First I removed the plastic panels on each side the control panel. Each side was secured by a phillips screw. Once the screws were removed the side panels were easily removed. I tilted the panel back to the rear of the washing machine to expose the lid switch. I first took a picture with my camera phone to ensure installing the switch correctly. I removed a small screw that secured a green ground wire. The lid switch was removed by lifting the plastic catch with a flathead (or slot) screwdriver and uplugging the switch. Reverse the steps and install the new switch. Secure and tighten the green ground wire. The lid must be lifted to properly seat the lid's guide arm into the lid switch. Replace the side panels and tighten the phillip screws. Test the wash cycle using a low water level. It took me 5 minutes to install this part. I am a attorney not a mechanic.

Unplug machine then removed two screws from the back of the control panel so that the panel could be removed from the top of enclosure. I then removed the two spring clips that fastens the enclosure to the back panel of machine. Stand in front of machine and tilt enclosure back towards you, this opens up the machine to get access to the inlet valve. Remove all electrical wires and the water hose at the bottom of the valve. There was only one bolt that attached the valve to the back panel; remove it and replace water inlet valve.

After uplugging and removing the hoses from the back of the washer, 1 - Removed four screws that secure control panel to top of machine and tilted panel toward front. Disconnected wiring plugs as req'd to gain more access. 2 - Removed the two gold colored clips that secure the top to the lower sheetmetal housing and tilted the lower housing away from the back of the machine. 3 - Removed the shield that is clipped to the back just above the inlet valve assy. 4 - Removed the hose clamp from the valve, disconnected the four wires to the valve (note their position), Removed the single screw that secures the valve assy to the back and removed the valve assy. Installation is reverse of above.