NTW4755EW1 Amana Washer - Instructions

I did the repair just as the video showed, and had no problems at all.
the hardest thing I had to do was to move the washer out to where I could get to the back of the machine.
Due to the help of the sales rep and the video the repair was very easy

Thanks
Louis

*be sure to turn water off, unplug machine, and unscrew the water hoses from the rear of the washer.
1. Removed screws from the back of the washer, just the top part where the controls are.
2. Removed the panel.
3. Use a putty knife or screw driver to pop off the top panel.
4. Remove the screws from the inlet valve.
5. Unplug the wires connecting the inlet valve to the washer.
6. Lift out the old inlet valve.
7. Replace with the new inlet valve.
8. Plug the new wires into the washer.
9. Replace the screws in the inlet valve.
10. Replace the top.
11. Replace the rear panel and screws.
12. Reconnect the water hoses, careful not to mix the hot and cold.
13. Plug the machine back in and you're finished!

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

Following what the video shows how that they send with your part email, confirmation or receipt!! Easy Peasy!!

Our 5 year old Kenmore washing machine broke. The first symptom was that the clothes would come out completely wet. This was due to no spin cycle. The second symptom was that the washing machine had little to no agitation. The lid still locked shut, there was no odor, and you could hear the machine running.

In the event a machine does not agitate or spin, the diagnostics on this website will lead you to believe that drive hub assembly or shift actuator is the problem. The drive hub assembly is by far the more common repair (the pieces are made of plastic and are designed to wear out). If you are torn, go with the drive hub kit repair. That's what it was.

There were some surprises after carefully watching the how to video. First, the agitator in my machine was very tall and required a socket wrench extension to reach the drive hub nut. This will require two sets of hands. Second, the drive hub nut was stuck to the point where I nearly gave up. WD-40 and degreaser did not work to loosen. I ended up pouring a half teaspoon of powdered soap onto the stuck nut to get more grip on the nut. This, along with two sets of hands, got it loose. Third, calibrating machine was barely touched on in the video but this is extremely difficult, the instructions that come with the part were insufficient, and the videos on the internet are not that good. In the end, I'm not sure that the machine ever calibrated. In essence, the machine is re-calibrated by turning the switch in a specific sequence of right to left. Lights are then supposed to flash. This never did anything. I ended up opening and shutting the lid 10 times in 10 seconds as this was allegedly a way to recalibrate.

Note: 2018 and later washing machines suck because of California and the federal government rules and pressure to make them "green". Well, they don't work that well anymore as a result. Keep this in mind when you vote.

Thought we needed a new shift actuator but after getting the parts and starting the replacement noticed the capacitor had come loose and was banging around under the washer. Found there was a little wire to the shift actuator that was cut probable from the capacitor being loose. spliced the wire back together and replaced the capacitor but not the shift actuator and its been working great. was an easy fix and easy to get to. Didn't need the maytag man when we can get parts from here.

I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.

I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.

Removed belt cover from bottom of the transmission , remove old belt, clean the pulleys ,and re install new belt. The new belt fits tighter so it did a few time to get the belt fully seated. Re install belt cover.

Replaced the mixer valve . It was a few screws, and an instruction video from YouTube.

easy install 30-45min and a reset and it was done.

screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .

Remove the center cover with a screwdriver then loosen the 7/16 bolt with an impact driver socket ccw to remove completely biggest issue is removing bottom cover tried pick tools only thing that was succesful was some dawn dishsoap on the center bolt area to loosen enough to lift up the cover replace the hub part that had worn spline grooves remember to use blue loctite on the 7/16 bolt before re-installing cw to tighten bolt