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Icemaker not pushing out ice
Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.
Loosened the 2 screws a little so that it would slide up and off then unplugged the wire harness. Installed the new one in reverse order and works like a champ.
it was really easy changing the ice maker. the only trouble i had was the wiring. it was very stiff and hard to route. it did not work at first but that was my fault did not have the connector plugged in all the way.since then it works great.
Excessive ice formation on cooling coils of the freezer section led me to believe that air must be finding its way into the freezer section, which led me to think that the freezer section was not adequately sealed.
Ordered gasket and gasket arrived within 48 hrs. Put the unit into out-of-commission status. Defrosted cooling coils. Dried the coils thoroughly. Reinstalled cover panel to the coils. Removed existing door gaskets. Installed new (2) gaskets. So far ice buildup to the coils had ceased.
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.
the heater defroster was bad. tested and no continuity brake in eliment.just doing a visual might have detected it but it`s hidden behind the coils.....all is working now
Freezer was getting a build up of frost on the condenser and wasn't cooling.
First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.
I removed the two screws and unplugged it. I then attached the pigtail to the appliance, then to the fridge. I had to push the excess wire harness into the hole in the back. It took a few minutes to move the rest of the harness out of the way by curving it upward and securing it with a nylon tie.I ordered the ice maker from Part Select on Sunday night and it arrived at 8:32 Tuesday morning, THANK YOU! I ordered very simple weed cutter parts from Sears a week ago and they haven't even shipped yet!
I removed the old ice maker and unplugged the cable. Screwed in the new one with a 1/4 nut driver at the 2 mounting screws, plugged cable in. Checked ice maker with a small level before final. All Ok and after night I had Ice and it has been working great since.
Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.
On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.
Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..
Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.
Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.
In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!
Frequent dripping on floor and no cycling of compressor
After posting the specific symptoms and getting feedback, I had narrowed the cause to two linked parts. I ordered both intending to replace first one, then the other as needed. With parts in hand, I pulled off the freezer control knob, used a nut driver to remove the two panel securing screws (behind the face, against the inner ceiling) and gently dropped the cover down. The control (temp sensor and cold control) is easily accessible as it sits wedged into two slots in the plastic cover. The control must be slightly lifted in order to extract the long sensor that attaches to the control and runs under it and into a plastic sleeve behind the panel (the new control comes with the sensor wrapped in a tight coil and it must be unwound for the install). Removed the three wires noting which color goes where. Used needle-nose pliers to remove the small push-on tabs and removed the control. After starting the new sensor probe into the sleeve re-attached the 3 wires to the new control. Used the original as a model for how to pre-bend the probe for the first 2 inches as it was mildly frustrating to position the unit back correctly. Pushed everything back into place, re-installed the screws and plugged the fridge back in...(you DID unplug it first, right?). Still haven't used the second part (defrost timer), but I expect it to go soon...it is a 17 year old refrigerator, after all.
Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.
