MMV5165AAQ - Instructions

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Unplugged the microwave. I opened the door. I used a butter knife to pop the bezel off the inside of the door. I pushed the locker up and to the left and used the butter knife to pry it loose. Disconnected the locker from the spring, and reversed for the installation.

Spouse just screwed in the new bulb and reinstalled the light cover plate with the two screws. Took under a minute. Works great.

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

Husband replaced the bulb

Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos

I took the cover off and just put the new charcoal filter in

I went to LG website enter model number and was given a list of parts that need to be replaced with a percentage of which part fails the most. I order micro switch PS3522738 which arrived and PS3529293 was backordered. I installed the one that arrived. The microwave worked briefly. I reordered and waited for both switches to arrive and installed both. The microwave still doesn't work.

I looked up my problem on the internet and found a very helpful video. Microwave on video was different brand but the internals and methods were very much the same. The video made it simple and easy to fix. Found the replacement switch on the LG parts site and ordered. Two different switch types. One with red switch, the other green. Part was $7.28. Saved a bundle in service costs. Here is the repair video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=_AglBJoHgDs

Replace (after testing w/ohm meter) diode and locker holder. My door often would not close properly. Microwave let know by saying not shut properly. When disassembled found the top screw mount was hollowed out resulting in it moving on occasion when you close door. First remove casing (special safety torx head) needed for rear screws. Onc e removed all parts available to view or work on. Diode is on the capacitor so caution is needed when removing. Serious shock hazard if touched. Use insulated pliers to remove from capacitor and a phillips on the ground. Test with ohm meter Should have resistance on way and non the opposite. Replaced mine bad. Next the holder 2 phillips screws and its yours. Unplug each switch and remove. Take note to what wires go to what switch and what switch mounts where. Mine had 3 switches. Removed from old holder and put in new. Screwed holder back in place and left scrws loose till re wired. Once wired set the holder by lightly tighting the screws. Try the door till it seats properly ensuring that all 3 switches are working properly. If so thighten screws. If all seems to work as advertised, safely plug in and test unit if heats up un plug and put cover back on micro. Your all set. Happy heating.

I had a son put in the new light bulbs. Rather simple

Take cover off microwave. Check door switches to determine which one was faulty.Remove and replace faulty switch.

Unplug appliance. Remove total of 7 phillips screws from sides and front of bottom panel . Panel front drops down, remove one socket screw and socket. Now have access for lineman' s pliers to unscrew bulb base. Reinstall socket, replace bulb and 7 panel screws. Restore power.

You Tube

Removed one screw lowered glass cover removed burned out bulb replaced with new one put glass back reinstalled screw. Dune 5 minutes back in business