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Oven would not heat consistently
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
I viewed the YTube Video that showed exactly how to remove the door and all the other parts for replacement. Excellent video shows and explains how to remove, replace, and re-attach the handle and the door.
1. OPEN THE OVEN DOOR TO THE FIRST STOP, PULL UPWARD TO REMOVE, ( IT WILL LIFT RIGHT OFF) 2. LAY OVEN DOOR ON A FLAT SURFACE ( HANDLE DOWN AND HANGING OFF SURFACE) WITH A TOWEL TO PROTECT THE GLASS. 3. REMOVE ALL SCREWS AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE DOOR.. 4. CAREFULLY SEPARATE THE DOOR FRONT AND BOTTOM BRACKET BY SLIDING AWAY FROM THE MAIN DOOR INNER-ASSEMBLY, ( THE FRONT GLASS IS HELD BY THE TOP CHANNEL. 5. TURN THE MAIN DOOR INNER ASSEMBLY OVER AND REMOVE THE HANDLE ASSEMBLY TWO ATTACHING BRACKETS. 6. REMOVE THE ATTACHING BRACKETS FROM THE HANDLE AND ATTACH TO THE NEW HANDLE. 7. THE DOOR GLASSES CAN NOW BE CLEANED 8. ATTACH THE NEW HANDLE ASSEMBLY 9. REASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER. ( BE CAREFUL WHEN SLIDING FRONT DOOR GLASS INTO THE TOP DOOR CHANNEL}
Replace the igniter. Removed 2 rear screws that secure bottom oven pan. Removed pan. Ignigter is located in center rear by 2 screws. Removed the screws and pulled ignigter out from rear. There us a prong connection that when pressed will release igniter. Don't touch new ignigter without gloves on. Will reduce life. Plugged in new ignigter and secured w 2 screws. Turned on oven to ensure problem was fixed. After 30 seconds, oven ignited. Replaced bottom oven pan. Tadaa!
moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !
it was actually pretty easy, it took about 20 minutes to fix, i had to unscrew the bottom portion of the oven to get to the Igniter on the bottom, then unscrew the Igniter, take off the old pice, and snap the new one in, put it all back together, and that was about it, i had dinner done by the time my husband got home from work. thanks
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
the old gaskt was not linge dup well, the door was not closing well
pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all. An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great
First i turned off the gas and unpluged the electric to the stove. I removed the gas line and the screws that held the housing of the hood and valve assembly .Then i unplug 4 wires that operated the safety valveon the gas.Unthreaded 2 lines ,one for the oven and the other one for the boiler.I then replace the new hood and valve kit and put everything back together and the oven works just fine.
My wife dropped a cast iron dish on the door while it was open, bent the hinges, so it would not close properly.
It was really easy, just lift the door off from the range, I set it down on the box that the hinges came in, took the six screws out to release the front fascia of the door from the back, hinges are right there, un-screw and install the new hinges, put everything back together in reverse and lift the door back on to the range, less than 10 minutes!
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is like new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.