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Dryer was noisy and was taking a long time to dry clothes
The dryer disassembly was pretty straightforward. The drive belt slips over the drum and easily prys over the drive and idler pulleys. The drum seal is held in place with the existing metal tabs. The old drum glides had to be drilled out and the new ones pop rivited in easily. Overall a rather simple process and the dryer sounds and drys like new again for minimal expenditure and time. Probably would have cost $200+ had I had a service person do the work.
popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale
The inner dor had broken and would not hold the seal.
Took the door off the hinges. Removed remaining 6 screws and clips. removed the inner door. Made sure the door seal was correctly installed in the inner door. Installed the inner door and seal. Put the clips and screws back in. attached door to the hinges and was back in business.
Heater ran constantly, except in air fluff cycle, thus operating extremely hot
Removed the frong cover and and internal sheild, removed and replaced thermostatic, wiring as original. I had searched several other sites first for thee part, but none of them seemed accurate. Your photo matched the old exactly, giving me the confidence I wanted before ordering.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.
At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.
drum support roller had come apst from bearing and was making a squealing noise when dryer was running
first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much
The two parts purchased were the corrects parts needed to do the job. (There's always a first time for everything!) When the plastic timer knob broke away from the timer stem, it left the silver timer cap's locking pin embedded in the timer stem. I could not remove the broken remains of the knob while the broken off pin was still in place. And it was impossible to grip the pin with pliers or tweezers without damaging the timer stem. As a solution I grabbed my whole-house vacuum cleaner hose and sucked the broken pin out of the timer stem. Total time of repair was about 20 minutes not including the two-hour brainstorming time-out that led me to the vacuum cleaner solution.
Took out old inner door panel, replaced it with the new. Had to take out 6 screws, remove old panel, put in new panel and replaced the screws..............pretty easy.
Following the instructions I pulled off the door and front panel. After rotating drum so the broken baffle was at the bottom I used a socket to remove the two screws on either end. I removed the broken baffle and inserted the new baffle in its place. Reinserted the screws, front panel, and door. I do strongly suggest having the manual handy to view the steps. It's available in PDF format.
On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.
These were changed proactively while I had the dryer apart to replace the motor.
I removed the control panel and front panel, then the brace holding in the drum. Then the drum came out easily.
Replacing the rollers is easy, use circlip pliers to remove the old circlips, replace the rollers, and reinstall the circlips.
After removing the idler pulley by removing one bolt and the spring, I replaced the idler roller, again with the circlip pliers. Then the idler arm bolts back to the motor mount, and the spring is replaced.
Reinstalling is easy - place the drum, have someone support it while you install the drum brace, then replace the front panel, then the control panel.
