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Dryer Baffle broke off and rear felt seal was pulled out
1. Remove 2 screws that hold door hinges on. 2. Remove 2 screws on opposite side of door hinge and remove 2 plastic clips. 3. There are 2 hex screws that hold the front panel on. Remove these and the panel is held on by a flex clip. Gently twist the top towards the outside of the dryer and they will come free. 4. tilt panel forward and lift of 2 clips at the bottom. 5. Remove the screws under the cover panel which will release the drum holder and lint collector. 6. Lift top of dryer and lift out drum. TAKE THE TIME SINCE THE UNIT IS OPEN TO VACUUM OUT THE ENTIRE DRYER. CLEAN OUT THE EXAUST TO IMPROVE EFFICIENCY AND SAFETY. 7. I replaced the rear felt by using a flat head screwdriver to lift tabs and install felt. Using the screwdrive I compressed the tabs to hold the felt. 8. The baffle was installed inside the drum and using 2 hex bolts to hold the baffle in. I added 2 washers since the hole was inlarged due to the baffle becoming loose and pulling through the metal drum. 9. Re-install the drum and push rear felt to the outside of the drum. 10. The front drum needs to be installed. Push the felt to the outside of the drum and check the rear felt to ensure it is still on the outsid of the drum. Install 4 hex screws to secure front drum holder. 11. Insatall lint catch unit with 4 additional hex screws. 12. Verify the lint collection panel lins up with the exhaust fan at the base. When units line up tighten all 8 hex screws. 13. Reinstall front cover panel by inserting panel on bottom clips and tilt up to the dryer. The top corners are gently twisted to the outside of the dryer to reattach to the spring clips. Use 2 hex screws to attach panel. 14. Re-attach plastic clips and 2 screws on side opposite of door hinges. 15. Re-attach door hinges with 2 screws. Cleck to ensure the door closes. 16. Check dryer operation.
All three baffles fell out of dryer drum; one by one in a week time span; of course the warranty expired in May of 2007. Figures!
Had to remove the dryer door and back top screws to access the drum. Once this was accomplished all that had to be done was to turn the drum by hand and replace each baffle and (two) screws each.
After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.
A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.
The SE1000 (washer/dryer combo) dryer stop working and I checked the error code: 8E, which indicated a motor/relay circuit problem. I replaced the relay but I still have the problem. I'll have to check the motor but I think it's not available anymore. The belt is OK. The unit is 25 years old so it doesn't owe me anything. The washer still works.
1 - unscrewed door 2 - made a mess because the directions did not work for my dryer 3 - figured it out = eventually 4 - popped loose the front panel 5 - unscrewed metal bars (that were holding the top down in the front) 6 - lift front like a hood on a car 7 - unscrew the rest of the front until the drum was loose and I could get to the felt strip 8 - glue new strip on where the old strip was = to the front and back plates that hold the drum 9 - put it back together :)
Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.
First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--
removed dryer door 4 screws removed front panel removed front tumbler bracket removed blower cover removed wires attached to heat and door sensors removed top removed drum and belt removed side panel removed clamp holding idler pulley replaced pulley and clamp reversed above steps
Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!
Dryer making grinding noise, and spotting clothes with black dust.
Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.