LNC6766B71 Admiral Washer - Instructions

To simple the agitator one socket three minutes done. Water leak took longer because we had to move out the washer and took off the back with nut driver and a pair pliers done. Thank you for your incites.

There was a crack in the black rubber hose attached to the water inlet flume assembly, and the assembly itself was cracked and falling apart. 1) Turned off water. 2) Lifted top cover up (pry up with flat screwdriver). 3) Disconnected hose. 4) Trimmed hose above the crack. 5) Replaced "spring" -type hose clamp with small automotive-style clamp. 6) Unbolted flume from under lid (2 sheetmetal screws). 7) Reattached hose to new flume. 8) Reattached flume to underside of lid. 9) Closed lid (light pressure downward required). 10) Turned on water. Total repair time: 10 minutes.

The repair was very simple to do. I was worried about one post regarding the braking mechanism but had not problems with this. Once the washer was disconnected from the power and water, I moved it into a larger are for more room to work. I removed the front and back panels to disconnect the hose from the bottom of the tub to the water pump. There will be water in it so have towels ready also removed the water level hose by lifting up on top of washer. After hoses were remove, I released the belt from under the washer amd released all the springs around the bottom of the tube which was not difficult. The tube then lifted straight out the top and I set it upside down on a towel. One side I the snubber was worn completely through. With a short socket set, I loosened the screws holding in the snubber about 1/4 of the way and the snubber was easy to work out. I placed the new snubber in an tightened all the screws. Then placed the tube back into the washer. The springs were difficult to get on with the new snubber. What I did was used a small piece of this rope(about 50lbs breaking strength from Walmart) and fed fed it through the top of the washer and had the wife pull up on the spring with it while I pushed and fed it onto the proper slots. This worked well. Reconnected the hoses am put the washer back together and it works perfectly now.

First piece of advice is to do all the work from the top; meaning un-hinge the top of the washer, do not disconnect any wiring to the washer controls, just the wiring to the water valve itself and kind of lay the top to the side a little. I initially took the small access cover off on the bottom, and tried to reach from the bottom, awkward and near impossible to get both hands in to where you need to make the repair. The rest of the repair is cake. Disconnect the wiring, disconnect the water supply line for the tub, replace the water valve and just work in reverse. :)

I ordered the new part on a Sunday and it arrived at my house on Tuesday. Removed the back cover plate,(only two screws) removed the two hose clamps and hoses. Removed the three screws holding the old pump to the base and took out the bad pump. Put the new pump in place, (a perfect fit) and put everything back together. Even the belt went back on with ease. The washer was back in place and working perfectly in about 15 minutes.

In our case, the hot water inlet valve was obviously broken. We picked up the washer on the side of the road in our neighborhood. We checked it out in our driveway - hooking it up to the water hose. When we connected to the hot side, water came gushing out the valve, inside the washer. A quick look confirmed it was obvioulsy broken. We connected the cold side and it started to fill the tub. Other checks confirmed the washer timer and other controls worked OK. we ordered the valve part from PartSelect (about $60 total). Took all of about 30 minutes to pull the old valave out and install the new one. Cleaned up the washer (it really needed it BADLY), and the washer is working perfectly now.

After reading several online posts about this problem on appliance forums and following the suggestions about how to determine what was needed (whether the inner tub turned freely (by hand) in spin mode or not. It didn't which apparently indicates the likely need for a new thrust bearing. I purchased the transmission pulley and bearing kit from Parts Select. I got it the next day, without asking for next day delivery! When I took the old parts off (easy: pull off the plastic cover, remove the circlip and everything falls off the shaft (if you are working with the washer just tipped up. Unfortunately, that was where my easy repair ended. The parts were entirely different! After looking and looking and thinking, I called Parts Select. They informed me that Whirpool, who makes Maytag had redesigned the parts. They didn't look like they would work, but I followed the directions which came with the kit and installed the new parts - three times. The last time the pulley stayed on and the washer spun as it ought. The problem was that even with the smaller of the spacer washers the circlip was extremely difficult to get in its slot. Anyway, now the washer works and I am pleased, even though I spent many hours on what ought to have taken perhaps 1/2 hour.

After removing the washers front, I removed the springs that holds the tub upright and in balance. From the video, it decribed the ease of installing the new springs after removing the original springs. The new spring needs a great deal of force to reattach them. I attached a pair of minature vise grips(4") to the springs upper shaft and attached the strap (I used a ratchet strap long end strap with hook) to the vise grips and had a helper pull up until I could attach the spring to it's spring bracket. The back ones were quit difficult so be advised, if your not strong (physical) and have a strong helper, don't attempt this task.

Watched video , after that there was no problem, really easy.

Had no problems taking machine apart following online instructions. At first couldn't find snubber ring because it was completely worn away. Once found it was very easy to replace. Only problem with putting back together was getting the first spring back on, after that it was a breeze. Machine up and running.

I would not recommend trying this without the spring removal & re-install tool. Very difficult to impossible to remove the springs with pliers. Not meant for novice handy persons.

Washer was jumping around in the spin cycle to the point that it disengaged the water fill level hose which in turn caused it to overflow. I fixed the hose but almost immediateley it stopped spiining or agitating. I looked online to find that the jumping around was most likely the snubber ring ... the hard stop and squeal most likely the Brake Stator ... the no agitaion or spin was likeley the thrust bearing. I ordered the parts and were received in a couple of days ... by the time they came I had already torn apart everything and was just waiting on parts for reassembly. The instructions were concise and complete but I did benefit from watching a YouTube video on the repair. All the parts went together just like they were supposed to even with my limited mechanical skills. All I really used was a small socket set, a couple of screw drivers and a pair of pliers. Taking the Brake assembply is dangerous but can be done with no special tools if you buy a couple of 2 inch 10-24 screws to replace two of the short ones and then back them out slowly (look for a youtube video on this procedure EASY!) ... took me a couple of hours but any one who has used a screw driver more than once could probably do it in under an hour. Washer now running like new ... No Jumping!!! People at Parts Select were Great!!! BTW ... So that the springs would be easier to re-install, I stuck about $50 of quarteres between the coils before removing ... worked Great!

1.Removed front panel to access the motor. 2.Tilted the washing machine onto it's back, in order to remove the belt. 3. Unpluged motor wiring and removed the old motor and mounting plate.