LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

I found this website and it was the only reason I was able to fix the washer leak. I was about to go out and buy a new washer and dryer combo. Found the part after googling it and this website also had video on how to replace the washer seal kit. The drawings allowed me to see what the problem was and the video helped me know how to change the seal kit. I never would have known about the left hand threads on the tub nuts. I used a short punch to free nut instead of the spanner wrench which I didn't have. Otherwise repair went exactly as shown. I will always use this site to fix my appliances from now on.

even though i could have have ordered the spring that broke i took the easy way out and ordered the assembly it took less than 15 minutes to get done, and now the wife is happy and now i'm happy too.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

Watched the installation video on the website and used exactly the same technique. Belts came off easily as did the pump assembly. Installed the new pump and belts and adjusted the pump belt tension to 1/4 " when squeezed together. Replaced the front panel and moved washer back into position. The pump noise was gone and there were no leaks. Easy job.

Drained the tank. Pulled the front cover of washer. Pulled the lower cover of dryer. Pulled the top cover of washer. Pulled the mounting case for switch. Pulled the wires to switch. Pulled the switch. Installed switch and reversed the steps in order.

searched on line for the part.you guys had a very informative video looked how simple it was i purchased the part i needed and the rest was history thanks you guys are great saved me around 140.00 bucks. for about 15 minutes worth of work

just removed old base assembly with nut driver on one screw and put new base on .

pulled out washer from the wall tilted back towards the wall. removed front panel by pulling it out at the bottom. .removed belts by spinning the pulley .similar to taking a bike chain off. cleaned all pulleys with a degreaser 409 etc. springs are under the motor. slide motor away from you. remove springs with needle nose pliers from the front. to install new springs hook them to the rear of the motor first. fish them under the motor then grab them with needle nose pliers and hook to the front of the bracket. you could also tie a fishing line to the front of the spring and pull it thru that way. install belts [very easy]. did not need plastic guides. i did not install

The 4 countersunk phillips head screws that retain the control panel were removed allowing access to the lid switch assembly. I took a picture of the switch assembly to record wire location with my phone. The one screw that retains the switch assembly was removed after all of it's associated wires were removed. The old switch was removed and the new switch installed. Problem solved.

Love these older machines... Easy simple and straightforward. Lay the product front up on a small 2 X 4. Remove front cover, (two phillips head screws near bottom). reach under hand roll off both belts,, check belt numbers to ensure old belt numbers with new belts. Rolled on new belts, checked tension, per enclosed note. Ajusted belt tension via the pump. replaced front cover and screws. Install unit, (be sure to level it) Time to Rock and roll.

I followed the step by step instructions on the video and it worked to a (T). You guys are the best. Thank you for all your help. Sincerely Eddie .

I am not going to describe the repair. The video that Part Select has on their website is exactly how our repair went. Very simple. This is the second time we have used Part Select. They have saved us a lot of money on repairmen or new purchases. I would definitely use them in the future. The videos are so easy to follow anybody can make the repairs. Also, the delivery company not only misdelivered the part but, they damaged it. When I called Part Select about the part being damaged, they immediately sent out a new part without any questions. Why aren't all companies this awesome?!

Shut off water supple, disconnect hoses, removed 2 screws and took out valve, put in new valve. Reconnected hoses, turned on water.

I watched the video and everthing went pretty well. The only problem I had was removing the Clamp Nut. My Washer is more than 10yrs. old so there is a lot of water and lime build up. I use a Cole Chisel and a Ball Pen Hammer to break the Clamp Nut. Because you can dispose of it anyway a new Clamp Nut comes with your Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. The Tub wrench comes in handy for removing the Mounting Stem and to reseat the Mounting Stem. You are also going to need the Tub Wrench for reseating the Clamp Nut. You can order a Tub Wrench online there are various web sites.

The repair took about a half an hour to complete. Finding the required tools took 5 minutes. Rusty screws slowed down the rest of the repair. My son and I did the repair. Moving the heavy washer away from the wall was probably the most difficult part. There is a small panel about 4 x 8 inches on the back top right of the washer. After unplugging the washer and turning off the hot and cold water valves at the wall, we detached the hot and cold water hoses from the washer with a pliers, carefully, as to not damage the end of the hose. They were on there very snuggly. It took a couple minutes to make sure we weren't damaging the hose. We also made sure we knew which hose went to which connection.Next we removed three screws. One screw holds the panel in place. There are two other screws on the face of the panel. These two screws hold the Water Inlet Valve in place against the panel. After the screws were removed, we jockeyed the panel and valve out of the hole.There is a hook on the Water Inlet Valve that holds the bunch of electrical wires in place. The wires need to be "unhooked" to get the valve out far enough to work on it. We then loosened the one-inch spring clamp and removed the hose that feeds the water to the washer. Then we unplugged the two electrical connections from the valve, remembering which went to which connection on the valve. Viola . . . the old part is disconnected. Now we did the opposite to put the new valve in. We plugged in the two electrical connections. Put the feeder hose back on making sure the clamp was back in the correct position to avoid leakage. P.S. Ours was rusty, you may want to have a new one on hand to replace the old one as long as you have it apart. Then, we struggled to put the two screws that hold the valve to the plate back on. Once those were on, we struggled to get the rusty screw that holds the plate in position back on. We then attached the hot and cold water back to the valve connections at the back of the washer. We then turned on the hot and cold water to make sure there was no leakage around the new valve. No Leaks at washer! We do have some leakage at the valve on the wall and are hoping it corrects itself soon. This happens with valves like this that are not turned on and off regularly.