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Baking element quit
Removed burned out element and discovered replacement element had a different back plate and different hole pattern. Also, the electical connecttion from power wires to ends of element were a TOTALLY different size, both in hole size and size of material that hole was placed. This tood a lot of slow increasing the size of the hole time. Also, the backplate was a different size with a two hole pattern at the top of the plate, as oppossed to the original plate with holes centered at the sides of the plate. Had to drill holes in back oven wall higher than I wanted, as the oven wall had a depression in the back wall and I could not drill at that point. By drilling holes that were higher than previous holes, there was now a 1/2" opening at the bottom of this plate. Used a hack saw and cut off a piece of the old plate to slip underneath, then screwed in the new plate, thus filling the remaining opening, and securing the additional hand made additional plate. This was a lot more than I had bargain for, and when I turned on the oven, it did not work! I re-checked the connection of the power wires to the grid element and found one of the connections to be disconnected. Reconnected this wire and everything is just ducky now.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.
1) TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. 2) REMOVED THE TOP DOOR AND RACKS. 3) REMOVED THE 2- 1/4 HEAD HEX NUTS AND PULLED THE ELEMENT FORWARD ENOUGH TO EXPOSE THE ELECTRICAL CLIPS TO THE ELEMENT. REMOVED THE CLIPS WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AS ADDED GRIP. 4) PUT THE WIRE CLIPS ON THE NEW ELEMENT AND REVERSED THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.
Although the parts did fit, some modification was needed to remove the excess tabs as it appears these parts were for multiple applications. However the end result was a good fit and reapirs were successful.
[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.
[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back into the rear oven wall. [3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them. [4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone. [5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.
Removed mounting screws and element only pulled out about 2 inches. Disconnected wires and had to drill slightly bigger hole in element ends to reattach wires. Element mounting bracket was different than old element. Had to use one existing screw hole in oven back and drill a new one.
Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.
Truned off the power took out the two screws holding the old element disconnect the power leads and put in the new element. Was great to recieve the new element in one day, the day before Xmas.
just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.
The repair was remarkably simple. Had i a nut driver, it would have been simpler still. Nonetheless, I managed to remove the nuts affixing the element to the back of the oven with a wrench, pulled out the old element, reattached the wires (they slipped in with ease), replaced the element, tightened the nuts and, presto, I was done. I suspect I saved over $100, though would rather my wife not know for fear it will be spent elsewhere;-)
Shut off the power from the fuse box. Removed p the two screws and plate that attach the element to the wires and back of oven. Installed the replacement element by attaching the wires and reinserting the two screws. Restored power and tested the new element by preheating the oven at 350 degrees and letting it heat for 15 minutes. Works like a charm!
ordered parts WB21X5301 oven sensor and 2 WB1X681 screws mine were bad highly recommended slid my stove out also a good time to clean all the years of junk behind it removed screws mine were bad unplug the connector slide the sensor cable through the hole and u are good after cleaning be hind stove slide back into spot reinstall power and code went away tested different temps with temp gauge and keypad and we were good
Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
