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Baking element broke in half
I removed the screws holding the old element in place, then pulled it out a few inches from the back oven wall. Then I pulled the wires away from the old baking element (pulled off easily), and being careful to keep the wires on the same sides as before, pushed the new element on to the wires. It was then just a matter of inserting the wires and insulation back into the opening and tightening the screws. Simple!
It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.
Removed oven unit from wall. Removed top and back cover. Disconnect the wires from clock control marking them with tape and making a drawing of where the wires are. The back of the replacement control was a little different.The new controller had a place for a convection control which I didn't need. It went pretty well. If your an average repair person. You will have no problem.
Ps, On the old control you can remove the big black caps and look at the coil. Thats when I seen it was bad.
the bottom baking element broke on my upper oven... cracken in half
It was very simple.. first turn off the electricity... next take out the two screws holding the element to the back of the oven... then pull the two plugs apart( male and female ends) ... throw away old part. put new part in by plugging the male and female ends back together... push back into oven back.. get all insulation back in... put two old screws back in to secure... done.. turn on power... don't be afraid.. it was very, very easy.
Remove the screws inside the oven holding the back of the element to the rear wall of the oven. These scrrews are a square drive. Pull element forward and remove 2 screws that hold wires in place. Both sets of screws needed to be replaced with a different size. Reverse order to install.
The two dollar socket set from Xmas 20 years ago had the right size socket..
Long arms are advisable.
The lower element still plugged in while the upper wires were just hanging there surrounded with fluffy white insulation fuzz, I wondered, " Could I bake a potato for my yearning and hungry family?"
When I explained the situation to my retired father in Arizona he said simply, "I wouldn't."
The new element popped in. It got really red, and, kinda like watching my toaster toast, the show was pretty much over after it heated up.
Six screws remove the oven control assembly cover. Four screws remove the control from the cover. A few spade connections to swap to the new unit. And reassemble. Power off during repair, of course. This is control number three. Typical GE quality.
26 year old oven, lower element burned into two pieces.
I first removed the broken element by removing the two hexhead screws on either side of the element bracket. Then I gently pulled the wires through the opening and removed two more screws that attached the wiring to the element. I then compared the new and old elements and found a few differences.
First, the screw holes where the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.
Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.
I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.
Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.
It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.
old enc caps cracked; one broken off the oven door
Removed oven door from oven. Removed the inner oven door portion from the outer part to gain access to inner screws attaching end caps to front of stove door. Removed those screws and the old end caps & broken off pieces. Pressed oven door handle bar into new end caps. Reattached oven door handle assembly to front of oven door. Reinstalled inner oven door which included long screws that also went into the new end caps. Reinstalled oven door on oven. Job was easy. Price was certainly right for the end caps at $10.01/each.
Single Heating Element Support Clip was needed to hold up the heating element in the oven. Old single heating element support clip broke and came out of the hole.
Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D
It's so simple most people could mannage the repair. Turn oven off. Remove oven door and shelves. Use a nut driver to remove mounting screws. Pliers to pull quick connect terminated wires off element terminals. Use pliers to push connectors onto new element,wires may connect to either terminal. Nut driver for screws to mechanically mount new element. Replace shelves and door. First time element gets hot it will burn off oils and dirt, not a problem but do it now not later.
The oven door handle snapped off one day, no extra force was applied to it, it just snapped off!
First I unscrewed the end of the oven door and realized I could replaced the parts easily that hold the handle on the door. Then I held the sharp, broken plastic ends with a towel and used my drill with a thingy that fits on a small hex nut and unscrewed the broken handle parts and removed them. All I had to do after that is screw on the new handle holders with the handle bar fit snuggly between them, presto, new handle bar installed. Great service from partselect. com. Would use them again.!
I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model... To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing handles were held in place by a single hex head screw each. Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off. This is where things had a slight deviation. The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-) My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven. I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned. Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.
