JDE2000W Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

I watched the video tape

Looked up dryer by serial number on the internet. Watched the video on the website very easy installation. Ordered the part it came in within 2 days. Opened the top of the dryer with a 10 in one tool (like a putty knife). Took out the out defective parts by unscrewing the thermostat took wires off the old part and put them on the new part not to confuse wires. Did the same with the heater element installed the new parts. Very simple. If I had to call a repair person it would have cost 3 times as much as the part alone.

the video was very well done and able to understand. disconnect power ,remove lint trap,remove 2 phillps head screws, push putty knife in front seam line about 1'' in from corners to release top assembly ,lift up and support, disconnect wire connector ,remove 1 screw in each front corner lift front panel off while holding drum, remove broken belt,install new belt with grooves against drum ,feed around tensioner pulley and onto motor shaft pulley ,spin drum by hand to make sure belt tracking etc. reassembly in reverse.

Learned as I went along, from various YouTube videos.

I lucked out opening the top of the dryer in that I didn't break anything when I popped the top up, since I didn't know to use a putty knife to depress inward the retaining clips.

Found the belt lying on top of the drum, and when I lifted it, it easily came free since it was broken.

Watched the YouTube from PartSelect, finally, and Steve made it seem so easy. Unplugged it, turned off the gas, too.

Front two screws unscrewed no problem. Front panel lifted away, no problem. Tons of lint in the front housing, so I decided to clean away as much lint as possible since this was the best opportunity, and I also vacuumed lint out of the sheet metal exhaust all the way to the outdoors exit port. Then I had to get that sheet metal pipe back in place, perfectly, and that was a little tricky

The roller kit was a bargain compared to separate parts I thought I'd need (one roller only) so I replaced both rollers and their posts, spacer, and washers.

Another vender video recommended high temp lithium grease to lube the new posts, but I just used "plumbers grease" that I happened to find lying around the house.

The most difficult part of the whole process was pre-fitting the new screws into the plates of the new posts because you are self-threading the screws and I didn't have a nut driver. (I was trying to do it using two wrenches, one to hold the plate, the other to turn the screw. The torque required is so high that you'll start to round the hex edges of the screws and ruin them. So, I went out and bought a 5/16" socket for $2.49, and self threaded the screws by holding the plates with a wrench, and using my power drill with the 5/16" socket.

This is where you risk ruining everything because as soon as the screw has self-threaded the plate, the resistance drops to near-zero, and the drill zooms the screw down hard onto the plate. I found, afterward, one ribbon of thread lying on the work area, which means I stripped one of the threads by one winding. (I'm not too worried, but it did make me wonder if I had screwed up. Keep the old screws to use as replacements for the new ones if you encounter the same problem where you inadvertently strip a screw too far.)

Then, the plates go back into the dryer, and the left side plate has a much larger gap, because you have to remove/replace it through the rear wall slot by turning it in-situ; the right one just falls down into your waiting hand, and is replaced by raising it up from behind its slot.

Finally, you come to the belt replacement, and just follow the way Steve showed in the YouTube. However, I tried and tried, but it was difficult for me since I'm left handed and you do it with the right hand. I was finally able to get it by getting the belt around the metal drive, first, and then bringing the white wheel over and working it into position by pulling the belt forward to clear the white wheel being positioned to receive the belt's tension.

This is a very doable dryer repair, it will save you hundreds of dollars, you'll do a better job than a repairman (since you vacuum all the lint out too), and its a great story to tell your friends.

Learning how to do it, actually doing the repair, and then double checking that I got everything "right," I'd guess that I put in 8 hours of my time.

It was fun… but keep your cool since there will be a little aggravation, and maybe a trip to the hardware store to get tools you don't own.

Checked the voltage to the high limit switch. Found that the element was bad. Ordered the part from partselect.com. and received the part in two days. Unplugged the unit, pulled the lid on the dryer, used the 5/16" nutdriver, removed 3 or 4 screws, pulled out the old and installed the new. Saved a $100.00 service call from the repair man! Novice in home improvement can do this. Thank you Partselect!!!

Turn circuit breaker off, unplug for added safety. Use a medium flat head screwdriver and lift the top up. Use a nut driver to remove two screws holding the front panel to the frame. Remove the front panel and begin to dismantle the blower wheel. Remove the outer clamp from hte motor shaft, then the U-clip (inexpensive plier that has to pins to open the U-clip.... tricky little bugger). Pull the blower wheel off and replace with the new wheel. Reverse the proedure and your ready to go.

Lifted top lid of cabinet using putty knife to release clips then removed front panel. Removed drum from unit and set aside. Found that one of the drum support roller wheels had lost the rubber roller. Removed old roller and secured new one which was an easy fix.
Installing the drum belt was a bit more difficult as I had to do it alone. I threaded the belt through the pulley/control arm and held it taugt with one hand and then inched the belt around the drum while holding it in place with my knees. Took awhile but I got it secured. Would definitely help to remove one of the side panels of dryer or have someone assist you.

Absolute First thing to do - Unplug drier from power source.
1st I looked up the parts drawing on line. 2nd Took the front of the drier off . It was held on by two
hex head screws. iIused a four-in-one screwdriver as a nut driver. 3rd. Lifted the front off the two post that held the front on, being careful not to strecth the wiring. 4th Took old wheel off, by removing snap ring with a pair of pliers,it came right of, no puller was needed because the hub was out of round. 5th Pushed the new wheel on, being sure to line up the "D" shape to match the motor shaft.
I could not push the wheel all the way on so I took a short piece of 1/2 copper tubing and used that to drive the wheel into place. The tubing fit over the motor shaft and was smaller than the hub. Be careful to tap the plastic wheel on, you do not want to crack the wheel. 6th Put snap ring on -with pliers. Reassembled front. Finished.

Lifted top from dryer and fuses were in the back of drum just below heating coil. Used nut driver to remove heating coil to gain access to fuses and replaced them. Process was quick and easy. Diagram from this site made locating fuses elementary!

P.S. I have no certified experience in appliance repair.This was my first time ever and dryer works perfect.

The new blower fan was made of molded plastic in which the hole internal diameter contained extra material

I ordered this part to replace broken lint filter. Shipping estimate was 3-5 working days. I had the part 2 days after I ordered it!! I was very surprised and extremely pleased. If I need anymore appliance parts, I know exactly where to go!

Lint filter replacement is routine maintenance. operating without a filter causes problems, a dryer sheet was sucked thru the opening and into the blower wheel, causing a lot of noise, and shaking because of the unbalance. I popped the top of the machine up, removed two screw holding the front in place, removed the front, gaining access to blower.
Removed the offending sheet, straighted the bent fin, and put everything back together again. Installeed the new filter, now it runs smooth, and quiet. mission accomplished.

This is a very easy, no frills dryer to work on. Access to the blower by removing two screws holding the front panel. Blower fan held in place with a snap ring. Just recently replaced the drum rollers and shafts and the belt as well. It ran sweet for about a week and then an electric control on the motor went bad and it on;y can be replaced by buyig a new motor at $135.00. Some luck huh? Found a guy local selling a 8th month old Maytag of higher capacity and more bells and whistles for $150.00. It works great and my old Admiral uses many of the same parts so I'll have a supply of thermostats, rollers, etc., when the Maytag goes on the blink.

I just removed 1 screw that held the safety thermostat in and replaced it. Then I removed the long screw that holds the heating element and the high limit fuse in place. Replaced the fuse, cleaned out the lint duct area. Closed the dryer lid and pluged it in, it worked fine.