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Very loud noise when washer was in spin cycle
Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair. The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine. Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in positive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.
I followed the video from the website to install the lid switch. Worked like a charm. Great instructions. You do need to supply your own butt splice connectors .
As an 89 years old ignorant about washing machine repairs, I contacted a company to come and install the new filter, which would have cost me $85,00, just to come, not to replace the filter, that price graduated me to become an instant washing machine mechanic; but then, I read the extremely easy instructions how to do the work; I just followed the instructions, and the machine now works like new!. my order # was 22526491. The Part # was PS3652834
I was instructed to call 1-888-895-1535 if I needed any assistance; But with instructions so clear, there was no need to call them back.
Thanks Partselect.com !!!
Here is how I did it: and why, water filter was clogged up. 1: i unplogged the washing machine. 2: I shut off both, the hot and cold water hoses. 3: I removed the water hoses from the machine. 4: I removed three screws from back of control panel. 5: I pulled back the hose clamp between valve and flex hose to shower head. (if after doing this, the hose will not move, spray some WD40, and will move fast.) 6: remove two electrical connections on valve, one on right, and one on left. 7:remove two screws that hold triple water valve to base. 8: replace valve in reverse order above step 7. that is my friends, if an ignorant 89 years old did it, you can do it aswell. God bless you all, and don't forget, this was only possible through the expert assistance of PartSelect. kindly buy all of your products from them Call them:1-888-895-1535. Thanks, God Bless
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Would agitate, but not spin, leaving clothing soaking wet.
The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.
The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.
Removed the two hex head screws from the broken strap and replaced it with the new one. The other three straps were not broken but I also replaced them, again, one at a time. This made sense,since the machine was at least ten years old.
My washer started leaking water out of the bottom.
I pushed a small screwdriver under the top lid and pulled the front out and lifted it out or the way. The rubber hose had two clamps holding it. One you loosen with a flat screwdriver and the other one you squeeze with pliers to remove hose.Then replace hose and put front back on. It's very simple.
Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.
Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I could remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.
pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.