Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Washer ran fine but woudl not drain water - low humming noise
Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans Remove internal drain hose/clamps from pump - w/ pliers Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts Remove wire assembly plug from socket Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer) Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug You are done !
Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.
Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.
The lid switch which signals that the washer door is closed malfunctioned. Even with the lid closed the washer would not spin because the washer was detecting the lid as open because of the faulty switch
The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.
Water was dripping into the detergent tray when the unit was off.
Removed the control panel back plate cover. Removed the 3 screws that held the water control valve in place. I then unplugged each solenoid one at a time and plugged it into the new control valve. Once all wires were transferred, I pulled the old valve up and put the new valve on. Then reinstalled the screws that held it down and reinstalled the cover plate. Very simple job !
Water flowed into the washer all the time, even if unplugged
I removed the back panel at he top of the washer, then remover the two screws that hold the top control panel in place. Then I removed the three screws that held the water valve in place. I removed the valve from the water ports and then disconnected the four electrical connectors. I plugged in the new valve and plugged the valve back into the water ports. Reinstalled the screws, control panel and the back panel. Very easy repair, anyone could do it!
At the end of the wash cycle, the clothes were still wet
I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.
Would not pump water out.water filled and lid would lock, when put on drain and spin cycle, would just get a low humming sound.
Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.
Water would not empty from washer and lid switch kept clicking
The most important item I learned is the original lid switch is no longer available. It has been replaced with the entire Lid Switch Assembly. I read the new switch is magnetic versus the old which was mechanical. The kit comes with everything you will need (switch, wiring harness, lid lock bezel and instructions). I found the written instructions to not be the easiest to follow. However, I found someone had done a YouTube video on the replacement which made the repair easy (under 15 minutes). Although I did the repair by myself, a second person would be handy to hold the washer cover and controls while changing the wiring harness. When testing the new switch, remember to test during the Spin cycle.
The machine stopped working in a normal ay. The little screen told us we had a lid lock problem. So we fixed it.
We disconnected the rear of the dashboard and folded it toward. We unsnapped the top cover and exposed the lid lock. We removed the old lid lock and replaced it with the new parts from SelectPart. Put it all back together.
