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Blown Motor
Did the install a few days ago 4.25.11 and all went smoothly. The instructions that came with the kit were very straightforward and the diagrams were extremely helpful in locating brackets/hoses/connections. My dad thought he would just get down there and do it, but wasn't sure what to do. Using the directions with the kit, I had the motor and pump off in under 5 minutes. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS WITH THE KIT!
Some things to note: - Get some towels/cups/bowls, we had some water leaking from the dishwasher and hoses. - Be careful removing the dishwasher from the counters, go slow.
1. Shut off electricity 2. Shut off water. I just shut closed the line that went directly to the dishwasher. 3. Removed screws from bottom panel to expose motor and pump assembly. 4. Removed screws securing the dishwasher to the counters. 5. Slowly slid dishwasher from counter and rotated so door was facing the ground carefully to ensure wires/hoses were not pulled or crushed. 6. Removed screw from bottom of motor that was secured to the hanger. 7. Removed ground screw from bottom of motor. 8. Removed all wired connections from the motor and pump. 9. Loosened hose clamp securing the drain line and removed from motor. 10. Loosened 2x hose clamps securing the motor and pump assembly to dishwasher. 11. Ensured everything was clear and disconnected, and slowly removed motor and pump assembly from dishwasher. 12. Test fit new motor and pump assembly. 13. Reconnected 2x connections to the motor and pump. 14. Secured the ground wire to the motor and pump. 15. Slid motor and pump onto dishwasher and secured the 2x hose clamps. 16. Secured screw from the hanger cable to the motor and pump. 17. Reconnected water line to motor and pump, and tightened hose clamp. 18. Ensured all connections were made, hose clamps were tightened, and there were no extra connections. 19. Rotated dishwasher back onto feet. 20. Slowly slid dishwasher back into counters ensuring no cables or hoses were kinked or crushed. 21. Restored electricity and water to dishwasher, and then performed a quick test of one cycle to check for leeks. 22. Secured bottom panel and dishwasher to counters. 23. Enjoyed having a working dishwasher again!
The wheels on our dishwasher were mis-shapen and broken
It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!
Since i was not sure which gasket has failed, i replaced all 4 considering the age of the dishwasher,( 2 are corner baffles ). The only time i was scratching my head was installing the gasket insert. No one mentioned to overlap or not, so i did overlap and crossed my fingers. After several cycles there is no dripping so i guess overlapping about a 1/2 inch is the way to do it. And i would suggest cleaning the gasket groove in the bottom corners really good. Good luck, bill
To remove the upper rack guide end caps, pull the inside flange gently to the rear, then twist the cap out of the track. Then the rollers come out easily, and replacing them involves merely snapping them in place over a rack frame part. Piece of cake! Roll the rack back into the guides, and replace the end caps. No tools needed!
plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...
Lost Despenser Lid, Droped It And Havent Seen It Since.
Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.
Traced the problem back to the water valve. turned off the water. Disconnected the water inlet and outlet lines. removed the 2 mounting screws and unplugged the terminals.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Pump/Drain valve leaking
The hardest part was removing the dishwasher from under the counter and cleaning up the large amount of water that poured out when I turned the unit on its side. The actual pump replacement was pretty easy except there were a lot of extra parts that were only needed for other brands or other models. I might have tightened one of the large clamps too much as there was a very slight leak after I was done. One or two drops of water per cycle, which evaporates quickly and not worth taking apart again. It was not hard but took longer than predicted. Much better than buying a new dishwasher or paying the estimated $350 to an appliance repair company.
The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached. It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.
A no brainer. Simply open dishwasher door, remove lower rack and set new rack in place. Roll the new lower rack in dishwasher and close door. It fit perfectly and life routine was instantly on it's way without disruption.
Removed the lower rack and upper rack after removing the end caps on the rail. Order new replacement end caps. The originals will likely break because the plastic becomes more brittle over time. Unsnap the upper washer arm from the original upper rack and snap onto the new one before inserting it into the rails.
The trick is replacing the end caps. Using needle-nose pliers, bend the indented edge of the rails out so you can attached the new end caps without trouble. After they are in place, use the tip of the needle-nose pliers to restore the indentation on the edge of the rails to lock the caps in place.
Wouldn't Keep Water In Dishwasher - Bad Drain Solenoid
Rather than remove the dishwasher from the counter, I performed the repair inplace, which was much less work (although I did have to lay on the floor). After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose). There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better). Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out. The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit. Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!
If you are replacing an overheated solenoid that had the plastic melt, don't forgot to order a armature and link as well. I made this mistake and had to wait another week to fix the dishwasher. The repair wasn't too bad. The most time consuming part was putting the E-clip retainer ring back on the diverter shaft. Tipping the dishwasher back some really helped for me to have more room to see and work with.
Standing water in dishwasher after final rinse cycle
Disconnect the dishwasher power supply and water connector.Then disconnect the drain hose.Take off the hose from the pump and on the plastic valve is the black valve flapper.Mine was swollen twice the size of the new one.Replace with the new one.You have to pull the dishwasher out and turn it over to do this. The check valve was totally worn out.You must turn the dishwasher back to it's in use position and open up the door.Inside the lower rear wall is a plastic cover with 4 screws remove these and the cover.Then unscrew the piston and nut assembly and remove the check valve.Simply replace with the new parts and reinstall the cover. I replaced the gasket before I reinstalled the check valve even though it looked ok.To do this you need to turn the dishwasher over again and remove the 4 screws dolding the resevoir the check vave is in.Replace the old gasket with the new one and reinstall the new gasket.Do this after removing the old check valve and before intalling the new one. On the bottom inside the dishwasher I noticed the large white gasket on the floor was falling apart so I replaced that also.I'm glad I did because below this assembly there is a reusable plastic filter that was totally plugged that I cleaned and reinstalled before relacing the filter gasket assembly.To do this you must remove the plastic water jet.With a screw driver there are 2 plastic tabs that must be carefully pulled out so you can pull out the water jet.Remove the 2 screws and plastic cover on top off the gasket assembly.Retain the 2 screws but you will not need the cover it is part of the new gasket assembly.There are two clips you need to carefully pry off.Then lift out the old gasket assembly and replace with the new one.Reinstall the 2 screws that held the old cover before and If reinstall the old clips if not damaged.You can purchase new ones but usually not needed.Then gently snap the water jet in place. Put the dishwasher back under the counter and reconnect the power,water line and drain hose.