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Water would not drain, motor died
Remove the lower front cover there are three small torx type screw. The pump is the very first thing you see. Have a wet and dry Vac available you will need it. The drain pump and the drain lines contain a lot of water. Unscrew the big white drain plug at the pump and clean up the water, remove the front small mounting screw and disconnect the two hoses in the back of the pump with pliers and follow the pre-printed steps in reverse. If your machine is more than six years old you will have to use a utility knife and remove a piece of plastic on the electrical connector that is from the washer wiring, if you force the connection on it will brake, look at the connection and the plug and attempt to plug it in before you install the pump. It is easy just be-aware of the connector.
removed screws on front control panel. found info sheet. read that this part was correct. replaced the motor control unit tho saw no damage on old unit and it works fine now.
To verify it was the motor making the noise not the drum bearing I removed the belt and rotated both by hand to see which one made naoise - then I ordered the motor. To install the motor remove rear panel, slip belt off, remove 1 bolt holding motor in, carefully slide motor towards you until pivits disengage. Wires are ling enough to set motor on bottom of washer and rotate for easier access to connector. Install motor in reverse sequence.
door hook strike was broken half broke in the door the other half stayed in the lock i removed the one pcs from washer with pliers and on the door with a star wrench
1-Unplug washer 2-Remove the bottom of the front washer cover 3 screws 3-Locate pump and loosen pump drain cover turn to left just a little enough for water to start draining. 4- Suck-up water with wet/ dry vac. Remove 1 screw holding pump. 5- Flip pump electrical cover up and disconnect wiring from pump. 6- Remove 2 hose clamps. The outlet was not to hard to remove, but the intake was not easy to get the pliers on. 7- Install new pump. See instruction to install. I didn't have to remove any ribs to install the connector as in the instruction sheet that came with the new pump. Also I didn't think it was very clear instruction. 8- Last installing the spring clamps. The outlet went okay, but the inlet I never could get on. I could not get the pliers on the clamp. I fooled around at least 20 min. trying to get the clamp on. I went out and bought a 3/4 to 1 3/4 stainless hose clamp with the worm drive design. That is what took so long.You may want to get new hose clamps before starting. Other wise I did okay.
1) Removed back of washer 2) Removed nut holding pulley 3) Pulled pulley off shaft 4) Put new pulley on shaft 5) Replaced and tightened nut 6) Replaced belt on pulley 7) Replaced back panel 7) Washed pile of laundry
It was super easy...as the knob (Part No. 18 on our Whirlpool Duet Dryer) broke off cleanly leaving the metal pin exposed....(we had been turning it with pilers in the interim) so I just popped the new knob on and we were good to go! It was really easy to do and easy to locate the necessary part on your site. I won't hesitate to use your company and website again. Thank you for making all the parts available and saving us a service call!
Very simple repair: - Turn off water and detach water supply hoses. (Good to have a bucket nearby to catch water left in hoses.) - Remove 3 screws from the back of the lid; slide lid back 1" and lift off. - Valve is mounted just under the lid on the back wall of the washer -- remove 1 screw from back of washer that holds valve assembly in place. - Remove the 4 electrical connectors (2 black & 2 white) I numbered them with a sharpie so I wouldn't forget how to reattach them. :-) - Use pliers to squeeze & slide the little hose clamp that holds the internal hose on the valve assembly. Once the clamp is out of the way, pull the hose off the valve assembly. - Reverse the process to install the new valve assembly.
I ran into a little problem mounting the new valve assembly. The screw hole in the back of the washer did not line up with the mounting hole in the valve assembly. I had to drill a 3/16" hole just to the right of the original screw hole on the back of the washer. Used the new hole to mount the valve assembly, done.
It took a few minutes to realize that the part slide into place instead of snapping in. In order to get the part to slide into place i put my head in the washer to hold the drum in place then with both hands slide the part into place.
remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.