GHD5025F00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!

Since i was not sure which gasket has failed, i replaced all 4 considering the age of the dishwasher,( 2 are corner baffles ). The only time i was scratching my head was installing the gasket insert. No one mentioned to overlap or not, so i did overlap and crossed my fingers. After several cycles there is no dripping so i guess overlapping about a 1/2 inch is the way to do it. And i would suggest cleaning the gasket groove in the bottom corners really good. Good luck, bill

To remove the upper rack guide end caps, pull the inside flange gently to the rear, then twist the cap out of the track. Then the rollers come out easily, and replacing them involves merely snapping them in place over a rack frame part. Piece of cake! Roll the rack back into the guides, and replace the end caps. No tools needed!

First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

Traced the problem back to the water valve. turned off the water. Disconnected the water inlet and outlet lines. removed the 2 mounting screws and unplugged the terminals.

Replaced the entire basket and lids.

The hardest part was removing the dishwasher from under the counter and cleaning up the large amount of water that poured out when I turned the unit on its side.
The actual pump replacement was pretty easy except there were a lot of extra parts that were only needed for other brands or other models.
I might have tightened one of the large clamps too much as there was a very slight leak after I was done. One or two drops of water per cycle, which evaporates quickly and not worth taking apart again.
It was not hard but took longer than predicted.
Much better than buying a new dishwasher or paying the estimated $350 to an appliance repair company.

A no brainer. Simply open dishwasher door, remove lower rack and set new rack in place. Roll the new lower rack in dishwasher and close door. It fit perfectly and life routine was instantly on it's way without disruption.

The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.

Removed the lower rack and upper rack after removing the end caps on the rail. Order new replacement end caps. The originals will likely break because the plastic becomes more brittle over time. Unsnap the upper washer arm from the original upper rack and snap onto the new one before inserting it into the rails.

The trick is replacing the end caps. Using needle-nose pliers, bend the indented edge of the rails out so you can attached the new end caps without trouble. After they are in place, use the tip of the needle-nose pliers to restore the indentation on the edge of the rails to lock the caps in place.

Rather than remove the dishwasher from the counter, I performed the repair inplace, which was much less work (although I did have to lay on the floor).
After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose).
There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better).
Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out.
The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit.
Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!

Disconnect the dishwasher power supply and water connector.Then disconnect the drain hose.Take off the hose from the pump and on the plastic valve is the black valve flapper.Mine was swollen twice the size of the new one.Replace with the new one.You have to pull the dishwasher out and turn it over to do this.
The check valve was totally worn out.You must turn the dishwasher back to it's in use position and open up the door.Inside the lower rear wall is a plastic cover with 4 screws remove these and the cover.Then unscrew the piston and nut assembly and remove the check valve.Simply replace with the new parts and reinstall the cover.
I replaced the gasket before I reinstalled the check valve even though it looked ok.To do this you need to turn the dishwasher over again and remove the 4 screws dolding the resevoir the check vave is in.Replace the old gasket with the new one and reinstall the new gasket.Do this after removing the old check valve and before intalling the new one.
On the bottom inside the dishwasher I noticed the large white gasket on the floor was falling apart so I replaced that also.I'm glad I did because below this assembly there is a reusable plastic filter that was totally plugged that I cleaned and reinstalled before relacing the filter gasket assembly.To do this you must remove the plastic water jet.With a screw driver there are 2 plastic tabs that must be carefully pulled out so you can pull out the water jet.Remove the 2 screws and plastic cover on top off the gasket assembly.Retain the 2 screws but you will not need the cover it is part of the new gasket assembly.There are two clips you need to carefully pry off.Then lift out the old gasket assembly and replace with the new one.Reinstall the 2 screws that held the old cover before and If reinstall the old clips if not damaged.You can purchase new ones but usually not needed.Then gently snap the water jet in place.
Put the dishwasher back under the counter and reconnect the power,water line and drain hose.

Took lower basket out. Unscrewed lower arm assembly, removes it. Hand screwed it back in. No tools required at all.

Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.