ECBP82SK1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

I had my husband fix it! Very easy for me.

It didn't take him long. The most difficult part was getting to the screws. He had to practically climb into the oven.

The parts were shipped promptly and the whole process was relatively painless!

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

The only hard thing was contorting my old beat up body and joints long enuff to reconnect the 2 wires and oven heat sensor and put in 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. I did remover the oven door and that made it much easier for me.

The repair was so simple. First i killed the circuit breaker then removed five screws upluged element from contacts and removed the element plugged new element into the contacts popped the screws back and was done.

Unplugged the power supply. Took off the cover on the back of the unit. Unplugged the wires to the broiler element. Removed the bolts(4) holding the element inside the oven. Removed the temprature sensor from element and took it out. Put it all back the way it came out. Worked great. Took 25 minutes.

Ordered the bake element part from partselect.com. When the part arrived I removed the 2 6mm screws from the element, I used two clips to hold the wires in place so that they didn't receed back into the stove. I installed the bake element, installed the two scews ans was done. It took all of 10minutes.

Lily in Florida

Gizmo = Bake Element held in place with 2 bolts inside of oven. Removing them only difficult because they are so deep in oven. I did not have the correct size nut driver so I started with my socket wrench then switched to putting the correct size socket on the end of a long screwdriver. After removing the 2 bolts fund element did not slide out easily so went to back of stove and removed a metal protective cover. Found electrical lines secured to the ends of the element. Had someone hold element while I pulled each of the 2 loose - at which time bake element fell loose. Put new one in by reversing the process. That night wife set stove to Clean - and said best it has been cleaned in years.

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

On the website, the heating element looked exactly the same with same measurements as the old one. However, the part I received did not match. The screw holes where the element attaches to the back were wider apart and higher. Plus, the leads curved up instead of being straight.

I didn't know anything about this repair, other than I was replacing a part, so it never occurred to me that I needed to make sure there was no power to the oven. When I pulled the element out, there was a large spark. I flipped the breaker off, then finished the R&R.

Make sure you turn power off at the breaker, then replace the element.

Tim

Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.