CDE850 Maytag Range - Instructions

SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

First checked to see if there was power to the heating element. There was , so I knew the element was bad. I ordered a new heating element and it came in 3 days! I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Reversed the procedure with new element. Turned on oven and my wife cooked a delicious meatloaf.

removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..

This was so easy. I've looked for years in stores for these pans. I finally tried the Internet, found PartSelects and, holding my breath at what i'd find, voila'...perfect fit, perfect replacements. And it took just a couple days to arrive. I'll definately be back!
/John

Took parts off from under the range, and replaced the motor. Then put the unit back under the stove and connected the vent.

Everything went fine. No trouble.

removed burner and recepticle and replaced new one. You don't have any place to comment on service, so I'll put it here. I talked to Herb and ordered parts with him on a Monday afternoon. He was very helpful. The part came Thursday about noon and I immediatly installed parts and my wife cooked supper (thats southern for the evening meal) that night. A really wonderful experience. Thank's Herb.

I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).

First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!

Your staff helped me find the updated replacement that worked and when I was having some connection issues helped me get it right!

Changing the cartridge tops over to Stainless Steel was very easy and looks good,

First Inserted 2x4x 36" length of wood behind the spring loaded door hinges to ease removing the oven door as I worked alone (this was recommended in a previous post and was essential when working alone, TY). Removed 2 retaining screws on the interior side of the door at the hinge locations. Slid the door up an off the hinges, moved door to a cloth pad protected work bench. Took the door and glass panels apart removing all the related screws, retaining clips; taking note of screws, retaining clip and panel locations for reassembly. Removed the insulation, removed the glass window pack, and removed of all rust fragments (dust) between the 2 glass window panels. The glass window pack metal molding retainer, on the oven interior side of the glass window had completely rusted away. Removed the existing oven door gasket. Cleaned the glass door window pack, and interior side of the oven door surface. Installed the new gasket, which fit very well. Tightened the loose door handle screws. Reassembled in reverse order all door components noted above, and replaced the door onto the hinges, fastened the 2 door hinge screws, removed the 2x4x36" wedge holding the hinges in the open position, and closed the door. Job complete. Thanks to previously posted directions as a good guide. Hope this helps as well.

Fortunate to have the replacement parts available.
Wish a replacement door window pack was available, as the double glass, metal edge seal is deteriorating, and the metal molding retainer that held the glass in place is completely rusted away on the oven side of the existing window pack. Plan to find heat resistant caulk to seal the glass in the door, in lieu of the metal molding glass retainer.

After examining the burner unit I noticed that one of the male contact spades was burned and look deformed. After removing the spade I discovered that it had been originally manufactured incorrectly. I went on line to try and find the part. I found it at this site . I ordered 2 of the spades and replaced the deformed spade and another one that looked like it had gotten a little hot. She tried the unit and it worked perfectly. She had not used that burner unit for a very lengthy time. The investigation of the problem took a little time, but the repair went very fast. Moral is :" If a spade doesn't look right, it probably isn't", but either the individual spade or plug can be replaced. This site is now my "GO TO" place for parts.

As described elsewhere. If the two retaining screws are rusty, order new ones with the element. They are expensive, so take them out and check before placing the element order. Save time and shipping costs.

Did not need tools for this job. Simply lift burner element and remove old drip pan and put new one in its place. However - the drip pans that were shipped only fit on the left side of the range. The right side, where the grill attachment goes, is so shallow that the drip pans on that side hit the bottom plate beneath the burner element and would not let the element go down far enough to seat properly. I kept the two pans that don't fit for extras, but I still need shallower pans to fit on the right side.