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Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
Ice Dispenser "round chute" broken side tab, ice/water fountain not working
I could see that a tab was broken from the round chute that opens for ice dispensing and closes to seal off freezer ice chute when not in use. With the tab broken, the round door would not shut to seal the freezer chute and dispensing water would spatter everywhere. I looked for just the round door part, but is only sold in the "Ice dispenser solenoid and door kit" I only had to use the round chute/flap from the kit. The instructions were easy to follow and I had the fridge back working in about 10 minutes. It took me longer to find the right star headed screwdriver that I needed to remove the Maytag star screws (5) total. Because I didn't have to replace the solenoid or the spring mechanism, this was especially easy, and now I have those parts on hand if one day I need them!!
Ice maker and water dispenser would stick on. Would have to oprn door to stop flow of water or ice
I replaced the actuator switch and rubber pad with the switch actuator. I had attempted to repair previously without replacing the pad but the problem continued. I put up with the problem for a long time waiting for the opportunity to get to the appliance parts store but their hours are hard to deal with and work myself. I was able to find the part easily with the on-line catalog and parts diagram and ordering was no hassle at all. Shipping was extremely fast. I remove the front panel by removing the drip tray and the 2 screws at the bottom. Then gently lift up on the front cover assembly (careful with the connector to the circuit board at the top) it slides over 2 screw heads at the top. Remove all the screws that secure the dispenser to the fridge, one screw is hidden on the right side (as you face the front. Work the dispenser out and careful of the water tube coming from the top - it stays in place. The wire connector must be unplugged from the left side in order to remove the assembly and not actuate the dispenser while working (a good idea to unplug the fridge). A small phillips screw holds the switch in place and the actuator fits over with the slots fitting over lugs on the assembly. Reinstall as you removed - be careful to be sure all wires go back into the proper location and "tracks" to keep them out of the way and avoid pinching (if the actuator will not go back flush in its location check the wires to the switch). Plug all wires bach in and don't forget the harness to the top of the circuit board on the front panel. Plug back in and check your work. Important to replace the actuator pad - its "elasticity" is the return mechanism for the switch actuator. Probably the issue I had after replacing the switch and still suffering the same problem. Good Luck!
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on. Ta-Dah!
Repair work was very easy. Water supply was to the icemaker/water dispenser. After removing the outer fiber cover with a screwdriver, the valve was removed by unscrewing one nut. Post removal water lines were removed with a ordinary pair of scissors approximately 1/2" from where it entered the faulty valve. the two electrical connections were then removed from the faulty valve. The water lines were then connected to the replacement water valve very easily by just inserting and applying a small amount of pressure. The electrical connections were then connected, replacement valve reattatched to the frame work (fit perfectly). After this I turned on the water and BINGO ice :) Post knowing the replacement valve worked I re-attached the fiber cover and pushed the refrigerator back in it respective location. Again this repair was very easy and the part arrived sooner than expected.
This repair project was too easy!...and cheap. Sears quoted the price of the igniter at $280 plus the service call and the item cost $41 on PartSelect. The part was received the next day after the order was placed...WOW! So easy, turn off the power to the oven, open the oven door, remove the oven racks and lift the bottom pan of the oven up from the back and set it aside. There you see the flat type igniter in plain view at the back of the oven. Remove two screws with nuts using a nut driver (I had trouble because the screws were corroded and I had to use some, um, force to get them out and swore a little too). Once the screws were out, pull the igniter elecrtic wires and connector from the entrance hole in the back after moving a little insulation out of the way. Release the connector plug and unplug the old igniter and simply plug in the new one. Find new screws and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to push the connector and wiring back into the hole and cover with the insulation. Very easy job that anyone could do.
I removed the rear access panel on the oven in order to get to the igniter wires. While testing the output voltage of the old igniter when on, I found that it was producing less than 3 volts ac. This was my clue that although the igniter glowed, it was going bad and needed to be replaced. I unpluged the oven, shut off the gas feed to the oven then removed the oven bottom pan (pull two push pins back, lift up and out) and removed the burner baffle wing nut with baffle. This gave easy access to the igniter and it's two mounting screws which i removed using a phillips screw driver. I unpluged the old igniter from the connector, pluged in the new one after routing it through the access hole from inside the oven to the back of the oven where the connector is located. Mounted the new igniter, replaced the burner baffle, baffle nut, oven bottom, rear access panel cover, checked and turned on the gas, plugged the oven back in and sure enough it fired up right away. if you check the system of how your oven works and find the problem, it's easy to fix it yourself and save serious money...and look like a hero to the rest of the family.
No spark at top burners, first one then eventually all 4.
Most of the repair time was spent researching the problem online, locating the spark module inside the range, and selecting the part online. Installation was easy. Key troubleshooting info for me was, if there is no clicking, the spark unit is probably worn-out. I traced the ignition wires from the burners down to the spark module, located inside a 2x3" metal housing next to the bottom drawer. I removed 2 screws and out it came. The replacement unit pictured on the PartSelect site was not identical to the original but had the same number of contacts. I ordered the part and it arrived a few days later. The old connectors slipped easily onto the new pins, and I screwed the new unit into the range using the new metal housing. All 4 burners now spark up quickly, and we saved at least $100 on a service call. It was well worth the time and effort -- thanks!
I first removed the metal plate that covers the burners at the bottom of the oven. No tools required for this step.
Next I turned the oven to 300 degrees, waited 30 seconds and noticed that the igniter was glowing brightly, but the burners did not light.
I next turned the oven controls off, pulled the plug, and set to work removing the 2 screws holding a plate to the back oven wall and the 2 screws holding the igniter to the burner. These last 2 screws had corrosion on them and I needed to use vise-grips to get a firm hold on them. During reassembly these screws no longer held firmly because the hole they threaded into was enlarged during disassembly.
With the screws loose I pulled the igniter and fished the wires connected to it through the opening until I saw the connector. I then pulled the stove out of its opening and saw that there was a easily removable metal cover over the wires, and I took it off.
The new igniter came with an incompatible plug, so I cut off the connector on the stove wiring and on the new igniter and used wire nuts to make the new connections. I kept the orientation of the old and new plugs the same way in case the wiring mattered, but that was just being safe. I don't know if the igniter cares which of its wires go to which wire on the stove.
I reinstalled the screws holding the igniter, and shoved short sections of the supplied wiring into the screw holes so that the screws would hold more tightly. I shoved the supplied insulation into the opening that the wires passed through, and reattached the cover at the back of the stove.
I shoved the stove back into its opening, turned the oven on and it lit within 15 seconds.
I was very happy with the result, and the product I ordered arrived on time, well packaged and I'm a very happy customer.
First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL
i need to replace the lower oven igniter about 2-3 years unplug the oven open the oven door half way then slide the door up take out both racks push the bottom pan away from you and lift up one screw holds the igniter on pull the wire out until you get to the electrical plug disconnect
Jenn-air jcd-2389gtw refridgerator/freezer side by side ice door would not open to dispense ice from the ice dispensor I did an online order for the repair kit #ps2003478 (115v) ice dispenser solenoid and door kit to fix the problem with the ice door not opening. As I had deduced, the “solenoid” had gone bad, and the kit held most all the items required to make the repair. The only additional item the kit needs to have is the “fountain door return spring”. Be careful not to loose the spring when disassembling the unit. You might want to order an additional spring just in case you loose or break the original. The instruction sheet was pretty thorough, except for being small and the pictures hard to see. My refrigerator/freezer has decorative panels that had to be removed before I was actually able to get the escutcheon off of the unit, and this configuration wasn’t addressed in the instructions. After figuring out that I had to remove all the trim from the door of the freezer before I could start the repair, the job wasn’t that difficult, but you have to have patience and take your time to make sure you don’t damage the electrical components of the ice dispenser. Make sure you note the position and location of the fountain door return spring before you remove the ice door!! This is important so that you can get the correct “tension” when reinstalling the mechanism. If there isn’t enough tension on the spring, the door will not seal properly, and the dispenser will freeze up. Also, when it comes time to disconnect the “electrical edge connector” from the control panel, be sure to make note of it’s position. It isn’t difficult to pull off, but could be easily broken if you are not careful. The rest of the repair and installation is straight forward and simple. Just take your time and it goes back together pretty easily. Tools you will need are; needle nose pliers, phillips screwdriver with a small and medium bit, and a “torx” tool set to remove the torx screws from the escutcheon and fountain bracket.
