6100 - Instructions

I removed the black drip grill and unscrewed the two screws holding the faceplate in place. After unplugging the faceplate from the dispensing unit, I removed the four remaining screws; be careful, one screw is shorter than the others.

I then pulled the dispensing unit away from the freezer door and removed the ice door assembl ... Read more y. WARNING: Make sure that you look carefully at the alignment of the return spring BEFORE you even touch it because as soon as I started using the needle-nose pliers to remove the spring, it shot across the room! Also, look carefully at how the end of the plastic rod fits over the old solenoid; in fact, look carefully at the entire plastic rod and how it aligns with everything!

Unfortunately, the pictures in the instructions are fuzzy so you can't really see how the spring is installed and how the plastic rod fits over the solenoid.

The solenoid was easy to remove and replace. Be aware that the plunger part of the solenoid slides in and out easily, so it's easy for it to fall out of the solenoid unit and roll away.

Once I had everything back where it was supposed to be, I screwed everything back in and the ice/water dispenser worked like new. I was even able to clean off some calcium deposits inside the unit while I had it opened.

If I have to do this again, I would estimate that it would only take 15-minutes or so. It took me longer because I didn't look at the alignment of the plastic rod in relation to all of the parts---that is one of the most important steps of this operation.

Anyone who is comfortable using tools and working with small parts should be able to complete this replacement project with minimal difficulty.

The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the uti ... Read more lity drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".

First I unpluged the frigerator, then I turned off the water. Then I removed the the black cover from the bottom back of the frig. The valves are located on the bottom right. Unscrew the bracket that is holding the two valves. I then removed the bottom valve from the bracket, unplug the electrical connections, and connect to the new valve ... Read more .
To remove the water lines from the valves just move the white ring around on top of the valve and pull the line out and insert into the new one when ready. (the valves are the same colors) Do the same to the top valve, mount back to the bracket, then mount the bracket to the frig, hook up your water line to the valve, turn on the water and check for leaks, plug it in. Then put a glass under the water dispenser and try it out, it'll take a few seconds to get the water running through.
PartSelect was very quick on getting me my parts, TWO days, couldn't believe it. Very good examples of parts on web page.
Very satisfied and will use again.

Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.

The valve on the frig cracked when the frig was in freezing temps during a move.
The part was slightly different than the picture on the parts website due to a design change that eliminated the Y in the water line created only one connection on the valve where there used to be two. I found this out reading on other websites.
T ... Read more his design change also resulted in a part number change, but because this website had such good pics and views, I was able to determine the part was right. We received the part within 3 days and installation was easy. We eliminated the Y in the line and attached the fittings.

Removed the drip tray and cover panel. Then removed shoot housing, replaced broken door and reassembled in reverse order. Easy as pie.

I ordered the ice dispenser and selenoid door kit, it was easy to repair because I only needed the door. As per the instructions I removed about seven screws and disconnected the power source to the dispenser unit, pulled the unit out
and replaced the door in the two slots. Plugged the power source back into the slot, put the screws ... Read more back in, now it works like new.
Thank you PartSelect, I received the part in just a couple of days. I recommend your service to everyone. I saved myself a lot of money and will order again on any needed
parts in the future.

removed outside water spill tray and removed exterior cover & interior cover exposing the door arm and solenoid. replaced with new parts including spring. Elontronics have a plug which is easy to disconnecct. & reconnect
old solenoid head would not have fit new door arm
and vice versa.
I strongly suggest using the kit.
... Read more />A Torx type screw driver is required for all screws
on the Jenn-Air

Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping th ... Read more e new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca ... Read more ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that ... Read more is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.