6100 - Instructions

The actuator rubber pad had hardened over time so that it wouldn't allow the solenoid to retract and stop the flow. To fix: Turn off fuse to fridge. Removed the screws on fountain faceplate. Remove faceplate. Unscrew fountain computer assembly (2 or 3 screws) to access the actuator pad from behind. Unplugged the computer ribbon. Repla ... Read more ce black actuator pad.

It works fine now.

I reasoned that the water-value was caked with hard water deposits, or perhaps just worn out. I traced the plastic water line to the back of unit, then found the double water valve. I was not "sure" that this was the problem, but I order the part any way and it fixed it!! The removal /installation was pretty easy. First turn off the water ... Read more supply to the unit. Then loosen and remove the incoming copper pipe from the unit. Remove just two 1/4 in. hex head screws and carefully pull the unit out a bit. Then remove the electrical connectors and the plastic tubing connectors. Just do the reverse to install it. I am very happy with the item ordered from PartsSelect. Perfect. And shipping time was fast too. Thanks guys.

Removed shelf, removed 2 screws, pulled off face plate. Removed electrical connection to circuit board. Removed 3 screws holding part in place and pulled forward. Replaced door flap easily. Hardest part was getting dispenser mechanism back in place with the water tube routed through the right spot.

Followed the directions included with the parts, which were exact and well illustrated. If you are comfortable working around circuit boards and electrical connectors (with the power OFF, please!), then you can do this repair. Why electronics on this repair? Because you have to unplug a board to get to the parts, and disconnect the connec ... Read more tors to the solenoid. But again, the directions were fabulous, and I'm almost looking forward to needing to use PartSelect again. Almost.

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. ... Read more Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.

I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured wi ... Read more th the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink slee ... Read more ves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

ordered wrong part, called, was sent return number, sent part back, account credited ... easy return policy ... friendly people, good job

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to f ... Read more ully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!

This was a piece of cake! We put off doing this for ourselves because we thought it would be difficult. We sold the house and "had" to do it. Turns out we should have done it for ourselves a long time ago.

If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first ... Read more turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.

Counterclockwise turn old burner to remove. Unplug attachment wires. Replug wires place back in place turn clockwise. Done.

removed the front panel on freezer door ,removed and disconnected panel ,removed panel containing solenoid,replaced with new solenoid. replaced all parts. works perfect..