6100 - Instructions

Pulled the stove out from the wall. Removed the left side of the stove. Removed the wires from the old igniter. Modified four of the wire ends with the proper size spade connectors (supplied with the new part). Reinstalled the wires onto the new part. Tested the burners. Reinstalled the stove side. Moved the stove back into position.

Pulled off the oven door, just lift straight up. Pulled out the floor of the oven, very easy just lift from the back. The only problem I had was the screws holding the old igniter wouldn't come out, they just spun. I snipped them off and picked up two new ones at the hardware store. Pull the wiring harness in through the hole in the b ... Read more ack of the oven. Unsnap old wiring harness, snap in new one. Reattach the new igniter, replace floor, replace door. Turn on oven and cook food... fairly easy repair.

first of all i have one advantage even though i am 70 yrs old i had a appliance shop for sears in the 60s and 70s and have not forgotten to much of the basics i am still in the security business and up on electronics. last time i had the company repair the oven , 70 dollars for the part 75 dollars for the svs call. (first igniter was ... Read more on full warranty) well this time i decided to look for trhe part myself, i just went on line typed in oven repair parts and eventually all these sites came up. yours was the most professional looking and i took a chance. guess what everything you promised you delivered. price quality USA made parts and delivered in three days . opened package went to work less than fifteen minutes back in business.
will sure use you again if the need arises thank you

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then unscrewed the four remaining screws with a star screwdriver and pulled the element out and disconnected the wire. I removed the part containing the solenoid, spring loaded holder and the plastic closer. I did not need to replace the solenoid or the spring loading device on ... Read more ly the round circular piece that opens and closes the ice door. I just snapped it into the spring loaded part and replaced everything as I had removed it. It was very simple. Your need the star screwdriver though for removing the screws.

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I ... Read more placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to g ... Read more et behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.

removed ice and water dispenser to get to control board and removed two screws and electrical plug and two other wires and remove c/b then replaced c/b and all wiring and screws put it back togather in appro. 25 to30 mins.

Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws hol ... Read more ding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!

This repair was relatively easy due to the instructions provided and took about 15 minutes. Originally, I had bought a door flap thinking that was the problem (a small plastic piece on the flap had broken off) but after replacing that the assembly still would not allow ice flow. I then purchased the kit including solenoid and the repai ... Read more r worked. I had a bad solenoid all along. My suggestion is to replace the entire kit rather than one part as it is likely all parts need replacement.

My ice maker was overflowing and i realized that it was the water valve that needed replaced. unscrewed 1 nut, unhooked 3 water lines, unhooked electrical components and re-installed in reverse order. took about 10-15 mins.

I bought the following parts:

PS109042 Double Outlet Water Valve
PS46363 Dual Outlet Water Valve Kit

When I bought the fridge, the part that PS109042 replaces was cracked and leaking water badly. When I ordered the replacement part, I got confused and ordered PS46363 by mistake. The original parts look similar ... Read more even when side by side, but the replacement parts are revised drastically.

PS46363 is for the line that is between the water source and the water filter. The original lines from the filter are split (the original part has two inlets) and pipe to one inlet. You'll have to cut your hose right before it forks. The directions that come with the part are very straight-forward.

PS109042 actually distributes the filtered water to the water dispenser and icemaker. The old part had plastic fittings that held the water hosing to the part. The new part has no plastic fittings, yet holds the hosing to the part tightly. The directions that come with the part are very short and concise.

I also replaced the factory water filter with a Brita replacement (they are cheaper and I've used Brita filters before...they are solid).

All in all, I spent less than $100 on fixing a $500 used fridge that works as good as new. My wife was initially doubtful but fairly satisfied with the cost of the parts and the simplicity of installing them.

unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.

Easy to diagnose problem because there was water to the water dispenser but none to the newly installed icemaker. Originally did attempt to clean the solenoid but found the plunger assembly damaged.

New part arrived sooner than I thought it would. Takes about as much time to remove the lower vent cover as to replace the valve ... Read more . Remove the electrical plug from the wall, valve off the main water supply, remove lower vent cover, disconnect the supply hose from refrigerator valve assembly, remove one hex head mounting screw and you have both water valves in your hands. Identify the valve the supplies water to the filter and the one that supplies water to the icemaker/water dispenser. Then confirm which plastic water supply line goes to the water dispenser and which goes to the icemaker. Hose diameters are different but it is good to know. Disconnect the plastic water supply lines from both the ice dispenser and the icemaker portions of the valve. Replacement solenoid valve does not have thread on type compression fittings. Snip about an inch off of each hose and then press into the appropriate valve orifice.

Making sure the plastic supply lines do not get crimped, remount the valve assembly, reattach the supply hose, valve on the water and check for leaks. No leaks, reinstall dust cover and plug the refrigerator back in.

Move the unit back in place and then take a long deserved beer out and have a celebratory toast for a job well done.

I called PartSelect and was greeted by a real live person instead of a recording. The lady was very helpful and kind. We decided on the part that I needed, and it arrived to my home in less time than she said it should. I completed the repair with the instructions provided in just a short time. My experience with PartSelect was positive, ... Read more and it reminded me of the way businesses used to be. I highly recommend them.

removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.