56051A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Tipped washer over on to the front side. Removed back panel. Removed the flex coupling to the water pump. Removed the old belt. Installed the new belt and reversed the process to put components back together.

removed front cover the agitater then cover over large nut then large nut then inner tub then split ring and tub bearing then disconnected the hardware around the outer tub then replaced transmission then put back together in reverse order.

removed the old one and replaced with new

Unplugged the washer and unscrewed the hot and cold filler hoses from the back of the machine. Removed the 6 screws holding the top together. Unscrewed the 2 water valve mounting screws. Pulled off the electrical wires from the leads. Unclipped the water feed hose clip. Reattached everything to the new water valve in reverse order. Put the screws holding the top panel in place back in.

For good measure, I also replaced the drain hose since I had noticed a little leakage there. Two screws and a little twisting and pushing was all that took.

Then I hooked everything back up and it worked like a charm. Finally, I went out to dinner with my wife on the money I saved!

After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.

Only took 2 days to ship. Took the screws out of the bottom rear panel to gain access to bottom of tub. Next pushed the two hidden tabs with flat screwdriver in the front to gain access to the top of tub, they are located straight inline with each side of the washer lid in seam between the top panel and the front side panel of washer. Then installed the new suspension rod and reassembled. You can find online videos that show how to disassemble appliances if you're not sure how to get them apart for repair. My first appliance repair was easy to do and saved a lot of $$$ vs paying for repair or purchasing a new unit.

Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

Drain tub. remove 2 hose clamps and hoses. R&R 2 screws that hold pump.

It was very easy, just one screw to get the belt on, then it was just putting in place and putting it back together took the longest.

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

Took front panel off the washer and found the pump working but no water drained from the tub. Took the motor off the washer by removing the two 10mm screws and attaching hoses. Decided to take the motor apart and found the propeller shaft has broken off inside the pump. Ordered new motor from Partselect and replaced it. Washer is working fine now.

Just used hands to pry open the old agitator from the washer. If one angle does not work try another and go in a clockwise direction. The new agitator had a new coupling at the bottom, so I needed something to push it out from the top, found a long metal rod and easily pushed it down and out. Verified that new coupling was exactly the same as the old one. The old one was good so I just pushed the new agitator down on the old coupling and it worked fine.

Removed the front panel with a stiff putty knife, removed the worn belt. Placed the new belt on the front pully and than the rear pully, turning clockwise. After checking the spin cycle I put the front panel back on and I was done.

Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!

I pulled agitator off revealing rotted hub. Had to remove inner basin from machine. This required pulling off top and tying up to be out off way . I had to get the control panel out of way. Removed back screws and moved it up as though hinged. I had to remove the water fill piece, as this was impeding removal of basin. I had to remove top ring off of inner drum. Needed a second person to hold control panel away as I removed drum. Once drum was out, it was an easy task to replace the rotted hub. I then needed to get the portion that was rotted and still on drive out. Could not wrench the hub nut out due to lack of leverage. Split nut with a chisel. Once old nut out, I cleaned up threads, put inner basin back in, again utilizing assistance in holding control panel out of way. Reinstalled in order. Before I had gone too far, I found that a six pronged jumper had fallen off of the controls. Found where it had been and re-installed. Put remainder back in reverse order. Machine back on line, and working properly.