56051A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

took screw driver unscrew the srews remove the drain hole stuck the new hole in it,s place and replace with new srews that was it.

Belt had worn and was shredding and melting due to pump not draining tub. Too bad my wife and daughters couldn't tell me the pump wasn't working right any sooner. The belts slow disintigration over time made a black, gooey mess inside the machine. Worked on the machine in place and only removed front. Old belt removal was easy with screwdriver prying around motor pulley but replacement was challenging in the tight space under the machine. It did go on by working-rotating belt around back of agitator pulley. By far the hardest part of the job. Replacing pump was easy enough but made a water mess and had to adjust clamps for leaks. Machine is now good to go.

As directed by the book.

Pulled off agitator with little effort. One 7/16 bolt to remove and the coupler came right off. Pushed on new coupler, replaced with new provided bolt, pushed agitator back on and was back in business!! Very simple inexpensive repair. Thanks Partsselect for your quick parts turnaround!

Once I watched the video to replace the pump(Thanks so much for that - big help!!), I disabled the machine to replace the pump, to my surprise found a big clump of fuzzy stuff that was blocking the pump, once I removed that and re-assemble the washer, it started working fine!. Unfortunately, I had already bought the the pump and agitator bell thinking they where both bad, so I'm in the process of returning them now, thanks a bunch! btw - what took so long was I had a mess with the water left in the washer, tip - get all the water out first ;-)

This top loading washer was purchased new in 2006. It has had a good bit of use and was a rather inexpensive model, but had been working fine. Suddenly the agitator stopped working. First I pulled off the agitator inside the machine, which in this model came off in one piece. In order to do that I grabbed it at the very bottom by pushing my fingers underneath the base, then rocked it from side to side while pulling up on it until it popped off. This exposed the agitator gear that had gone bad. I unbolted the gear and pulled it off. This removal took a bit of effort, and again, we had to rock it back and forth while pulling up on it until it finally came loose. When the new part arrived a few days later, we slipped it onto the transmission stem, and bolted it into place. Then the agitator was put back on and snapped into place. Works as good as new for less than $14, including shipping!

Viewed the hot/cold valve. I saw that the cold water solinoid was burned. Ordered new valve and replace old valve. On my washer 4 screws held the switch panel, easy to remove and gave me plenty of room to veiw and do the repair.

I found the diagram in your website, identify the problem, order the replacement part and replace it in 10 minutes. Great deal, thanks.

Watch how to fix it on You Tube. Order the part I needed and fixed. Real simple. That is it.

its great and saved me lots of money enjoy my washer again

Took the front panel off and it looked like everything was OK with the transmission, etc. Pulled out the agitator and noticed that the coupler had stripped out splines. New coupler was a later design, but was backward compatible with the new bolt included. Spline slipped on with no problem and hold down bolt snugged down just fine. Snapped the agitator back on and was in business.

My repair started by reading the reviews on partselect.com that helped me to understand my problem and then described how I can fix it myself. My washer was making a loud noise and leaking water right above the transmition. So I figured a bad bearing was causing the noise and the failing tub seal caused the leaking water. This was fourth time taking the washer apart since I have replaced the motor, tub hub, and agitator cone over the years. So I was familiar with the dismantling process which made the job alittle quicker. This job was the most extensive diamantling yet because the outer tub had to be removed and turned over to remove the motor and trans assembly to access the tub seal. What was really helpful was the instructions I found behind the control panel explained step by step on how to remove the parts. Reassembled and started washer, was still alittle noisy because some rust had formed on the trans parts from the water leak on it, but after a few cycles that wore off and now it is like normal again.

Remove agitator remove retainer screw and using Prybar lift off the old coupler ..... After removal use heat gun and wire brush to remove plastic residue from the splines of the motor shaft ... While the shaft is still warm line up the splines from the new coupler and using the mallet force the coupler on the shaft ... Install the retainer screw that comes with the coupler and snap on the agitator ... Done

I pulled up on the fin part of the agitator exposing the gear coupling. I unbolted the nut on top with a 12 mm socket. Once the nut and washer were removed I pulled up on the gear coupling and slid it right off. Reversed procedures to install the new one.