41782 ((ABWESEU)) LG Washer - Instructions

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

Went to U tube found several good videos relative to the problem, suggest you do the same. Heavy rubber diaphragm seal retainer spring VERY difficult to expand, bought a replacement spring with less tension and it worked fine. Plastic clip at the back of the cabinet does not have to be removed. Squeeze it and it will unlatch to free the hose, The part supplied was an exact replacement for the original, it worked just fine. Good luck.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

From my research, I thought I needed to replace the Hall Sensor (also known as the Rotor Positioning Sensor). The Part Select site informed me that I might need to also replace the Rotor Assembly. The site said that I could not order just the Hall Sensor - I needed to order the Washer Motor Stator which would include the Hall Sensor. When I received the order, I found that the Motor Stator did not include the Hall Sensor. I found that I could order a part that matched the Hall Sensor I removed from my machine. I then ordered that part. I installed just the new Hall Sensor - the machine worked. I have returned the unused parts.

Unscrewed the old part; screwed in the new part and said a quick prayer - LOL!
The part worked great, but I wanted to mention how quickly I received the part!
I would definitely order from this company again!

To put the new spring on requires two people. One to pull the drum up as far as possible and hold it in place and the other to attach the spring to the drum and the into the slot on the side of the washer frame. It takes a lot of leverage and strength to get the spring into the slot. We used a screw driver as leverage to get the spring extended to slip into the slot. You might also need the plastic holder part# 4930FR3040A. If the washer door boot has come off due to spring breaking, you will need to reset it. That requires also removing front panel. There is a large wire ring that holds the boot in place. You either need a special pair of pliers to expand the spring to reset the boot or a lot of strength to do it with a couple screw drivers.

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

Could not do the repair. Partselect sent me the wrong parts even though I gave them the model number and the brand they sent me the wrong parts.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

Removed items step by step in sequence as per video to get to baskets . Knocked out bearings and gasket seal. Replaced new parts and in reverse reassembled as per video. Very difficult without video to follow. My bearings were easy to remove but some are frozen in so will need oil ,bars or pipe to fit opening to drive out old bearings. Use camera and notes of sequence to aid in reinstall. Separate and mark fasteners as removed. Note : Was initially told by appl Insurance service person my bearings were bad because when attempting to spin a noise was heard and this not covered by plan ,but I found the motor position sensor had failed by testing it with multimeter which is a low priced part and easily accessable from back. Water hose screens partially clogged also. Canceled Appl service contract.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

just put new part in very simple only problem was shipping yall used fedex went to 4 states and one state twice they finally gave it to USPS so it took almost 9 days to get here

Found this part online. I just sets inside, did not click in like the bleach and fabric softener inserts. Think is ok, seems to work

pretty straight forward repair,lots & lots of parts to clean :-)