41729052990 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.

First thought the problem was with the spin cycle, however it soon became clear it was the pump that wasn't draining the water that kept the spin cycle from doing it's thing. After hand-wringing a large load and shopvacing out the remaining water, I ordered the new pump, got it in two days, and did a quick change out and it works perfectly. During the removal of the rubber boot that connects the tub to the pump, the one thing I did discover was a yucky buildup of years of fabric softener which I couldn't break my wife from using. But, after showing, and more importantly, letting her SMELL the fungus/mildew in the sludge, I've finally broken her of the habit! Best bang for the repair buck so far.

I removed the two screws in the front panel. Visually everything looked good. Luckily there was an envelope with a wiring diagram and a test procedure. A word of caution-the tests require checking voltages of 120 volts AC which can kill you. If you are comfortable with a multimeter and AC, continue reading. You must remove the back panel and hoses to continue. Following the step by step tests, voltage and resistance, the procedure said to replace the motor control board. After replacing the board and a new belt since the old belt looked worn, the washer still didn't spin. I followed the test procedure again and had good readings for all of the steps and the board. This left the motor windings to check. Since I'm not an electrician I wasn't sure how to check the windings but this was the last step so I ordered the motor. The install was straight forward and everything now worked. Total cost was $221.00 for the board and belt plus $275.00 for the motor, $496.00. This is still cheaper than a new machine and a lot less hassle.

first took off old pump off by removing 2 screws and removed 2drain hoses under front load washer with pair of pliers then put new pump on same as removal.

Had to replace one Spring on top of the tub and both shock absorbers. Anyone with even a limited amount of mechanical ability could handle this repair. Save yourself about $300 in repair cost and replace these items yourself. Spring and Shocks absorber kit cost less than $60 with shipping.

Just look at the diagram that comes with the parts, it's a piece of cake. The most difficult part is replacing the spring, she is stiff. You will need to take the top of the machine off, which is super easy, and remove the metal keeper on top of the frame rail. Get someone to help you as you will need to lift the tub and slip the spring over the frame rail.

The shocks are the easiest part of the repair, and should take less than five mins. to replace.

Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no matter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!

disconnected electric and water supply. removed back cover from front loading washer. removed two screws from spring end plate on the top of the washer. replaced old spring with new spring/insulators by lifting the tub and hooking the new spring on. replaced the back cover and top spring cover plate. reconnected water supply and electric. machine is working like it did before the spring broke. very easy fix. the majority of the effort was moving the washer around to get easy access.

I heard that the repair job was simple and the part was not expensive (whew!) The repair video on your website was MOST helpful and gave me confidence. At first I tried it exactly as the guy demonstrated and all went well removing the broken support. Installing the new one (on the right side) was impossible for me. I could not get good enough leverage to fully re-insert the lock pins and I was slicing up my arm on the sharp metal edges. I removed the 900+ screws (just kidding- but there were quite a few) from the back panel and could access the lock pins MUCH easier. All four for both shock absorbers snapped right in. Re-attaching the rubber vent hose involved a few cuss words but I got it back on correctly after taking a break. All is great with the little washing machine once again! Thank you for the installation video and amazingly fast shipping, wow.

1. replaced (2) shocks, remove bottom cover 2. (1) spring and rib belt, used a wooden block to hold up drum , rolled out ld belt and rolled in new----remove top and rear covers after replaced same ---thanks..

First I did some research and concluded the water inlet needed replacing. Obviously once you know what you need you go to PartSelet.com for parts and installation info. I went through the front of the machine. So I removed the front of the washer(2 screws at the front bottom)slide down the panel to separate it, lifted the top cover of the washer(2 screws on the underside of the lid and 3 wire connectors to the fill switches) and then loosened the right side panel(3 screws at the bottom). Now pushing the wash barrel to the side it gave me enough room to squeeze my arms in to the inlet part. Be careful there are sharp edges and screw tips inside the machine. I removed the 2 wire connectors(hot and cold solenoids) inside the washer and then removed the screw from the back outside that holds the water inlet to the machine. Now I was able to pull the inlet closer to me so I could get pliers on the hose clamp to loosen and remove the old part. The new part was an improved version that was more solid. I attached the hose affixed the squeeze hose clamp and pushed the water inlet into place. The screws were not threading so I grabbed a couple of self taping hex head screws and a nut driver head for my drill and screwed the inlet in from the back of the washer. Then I replaced the wire connectors to the water inlet. With the water inlet complete, I reattached the right side panel, the washer lid, fill switch connectors and the front panel. Washer fixed and running perfectly!

I was hoping it was the drain hose but it wasn't. It's a front load washer so I pulled the kick plate in the front (2 screws) removed the three clamps and put the new hose on. Easy job, saved a hundred or so from the repair man. Part cost 35 bucks!

This is a newer washer, but I don't know the age. I just bought the house...!

I made this repair more difficult than it needed to be. I took off the back panel of the machine completely, only to discover the coupling for the hose was near the front of the machine. I tilted the unit on its side and took off the bottom before I discovered the access panel on the front, which is held on by only two screws. I put the bottom panel back on, tilted it upright, took off the panel, and had easy access to the coupling. The new part fit perfectly, and a quick wash load proved the leak was fixed.

First I went on-line and found a download for the parts catalogue which contains a schematic for the washer. After looking this over I could determine how to get the washer apart! After getting the front panel off, I disconnected the drain hose from the pump with a pair of water-pump pliers. As I pulled this hose out, water spilled out all over the floor, so I then cleaned that up. Next I connected the new hose and put the machine back together. This job would have cost me over $150 if I had called in a repairman. PartSelect saved me so much money, and I thank them so much!