41729052990 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Take off the back, one of the shock absorbers was broken, it was very obvious. Looked up part at partselect.com, very easy, ordered part, it came in 2 days, the repair took another 15 minutes. There were directions inside the repair part to tell you a trick to get the old one off. It worked like a charm. Why spend $200-300 or more on a repair on a $500 washer when you can do the entire job for about $30 and get it back working in 2 days!! No brainer.

My repair went well except I removed the rubber seal between the tube shell and front door, BIG MISTAKE! Next time I will leave the front half of the tube shell in tack in the washer and just remove the rear half of the shell. If it wasn't for having to reinstall the rubber seal between the tube shell and the front door, the whole project could have been down in under two hours.

Food for thought next time! :-)

disconnected fm water supply and electrical ckt
move washer fm beneath dryer (stacking config.)
removed back, found 2 broken shocks (round type) and 1 broken spring (left looking from back). checked online for parts and found your site. ordered and waited a few days.

back on task, removed controls (lower left corner) to reach pins, removed front lower panel, removed pins and broken remains of both shocks. removed broken spring. left remaining spring to keep tub suspended.

back on task when parts arrived. installed shocks --note that it was not clear that there are 2 shocks in each package (so i order 2 pkgs and now have 2 extra shocks --for next time it breaks away ;-)

crafted a 'hanger' with 10ga wire and 2x4 to permit tub to be supported and/or suspended without unduly stressing new components. attached both shocks being careful to follow instructions about alternating direction and orientation in relation to plastic bushing on the shock mounting points. removed remaining spring and used short length of 10ga wire to pull spring into position and lock.

re-assembled back and front cover... re-attached control circuit. moved closer to water and electrical supply and tested through 2 cycles --no problems found.

put back into position and leveled and locked.

works fine now.

This is the third time I have ordered parts from this company .I can't say enough good things about them from their fast shipping( always arrives sooner than they state)To the quality of the parts and the shipping packages.A first class operation from start to finnish.First step was to disconect power supply.Second was to remove washer drain hose from house drain.Third remove two (2) phillips head screws from front cover of washer ,located at bottom right and left side of front panel near floor.Lift front panel up to unhook metal retainers on panel that connect it to washer side panels.Use pliers to remove spring clamp from hose. Remove hose from washer pump. Remove clamp from hose,remove plastic retainer holding hose to washer bottom.Feed hose out the back of the washer through washer drain hose hole in the back pannel of the washer.Remove plastic retainer.Insert the new hose through the hole in the back pannel install the hose clamp and install the hose back on the pump.Relocate clamp on hose, take front panel,lift into place,push down to lock retaining taps into side cover slots replace the two phillips head screws.

Removed the entire front cover of the washing machine and dicoonected the springs that support the tub. Left the tub down and disconnected the struts and unhooked all the wiring and pulled complete tub out of machine. Removed all the bolts around the tub shell and split the tub shell. Remover the motor from the sheel to make it lighter to work on, removed the pulley on the drum shaft and pulled the drum out of the shell. Found that the cast alluminum spider was weakened by corrosion and this caused the spider to break. The spider itself should be able to be purchased seperately because the stainless steel drum was okay and could have been reused. The biggets problem I had was getting the tub back in the washing machine and getting it suspended by the springs again. I used a 6 x6 block and a 2 x 6 board to lift the tub up in the air to get the tub springs hooked back up. This took 2 people to accomplished. After the tub was suspended on the springs the rest was easy.

I first removed the top and rear panels to expose the shell, then removed belt and motor. I used a 2 jaw pulley puller to remove rear pulley, there are 5 spokes in the pulley so the puller did not fit well but I managed to hook on the pulley and hit the puller with a hammer and it came off. A better way would have been using a 5 jaw puller and installing the bolt a few threads in the drum shaft to protect the threads. I removed the rear concrete counter weight then removed the lower shock absorber pins at the shell and placed shocks to the side, this left the shell hanging on the springs. I decided to split the shell in the machine to avoid removing the front half of the shell, so I removed 20 bolts holding the shell halves together [difficult] and propped the front half of the shell up on wood blocks to release weight on springs. I then removed springs because they hook into both halves of the shell. This freed the rear half of the shell with the drum. I took the rear shell/drum assembly and placed the shell on 2 saw horses with the drum shaft vertical and the drum hanging freely with cardboard on the floor beneath to catch the drum, then installed an old bolt in the drum shaft to protect the shaft and threads and hit the old bolt with a hammer driving the drum shaft from bearings. Do not hit the shaft directly with a hammer, it will dammage the shaft and the pulley will not go back on. I cleaned corrosion from shaft and seal area with very fine sand paper and lubricated same with oil. The drum shaft slid easily into the new bearings on the new shell and I reassembled the machine in reverse order. Thank you to the others who wrote about this repair. The information was very helpfull.
Jim Swanson

Pulled off front panel and found broken shocks. Ordered from Parts Select and replaced within 15 minutes. It was a little tricky replacing as they came out due to poor access from the rear. Make sure to regrease palstic pins and she is running like new.

Removed the the two screws holding access panel on the bottom front. Shocks use two plastic retaining pins on each shock. Used a screwdriver to push down on the locking tab on the plastic retaining pin ant pushed out. One of the pins is behind the water pump and a bit harder to access. I used a socket with an extension to push it out. installed new shocks with old pins and was back in business. Shocks go in a certain way so be sure to look at the instructions that come with the replacement shocks. Note: the replacment shocks that came don't look anything like the originals. Originals looked more like an automotive shock. Also as both shocks were broken, I ordered two, not knowing that they come two to a package. When you order that is not clear. So now I have an extra set, which might not be bad to have on hand. Kit also comes with an extra pin in case you break one.

First I removed the two screws holding the front panel on and removed the panel. The hose is held on by two spring clips and a hose clamp. After getting those out of the way, I removed the damaged hose and slid the new one into place and fastening it down with the aforementioned clips and clamp.

First I turned off the breaker to the washer.

Then I removed the drain pump motor, saw that it was broken, and ordered a new one with expedited shipping. It was delivered about 36 hours later.

I should have used my wet/dry vac to suck out all of the water remaining in the drain lines. Because I didn't, nasty water dripped all over my laundry room. Lesson learned!

The part arrived at 2:20. I had to pick up my kids at school at 3pm. I wasn't sure I'd have time, but I tried anyway. I first removed the screws holding the entire pump assembly to the floor of the washer. Then I attempted to remove the clamps holding the three hoses onto the pump / motor assembly. I tried with regular pliers for about 10 minutes and finally realized I needed locking pliers. Mine are missing, but I have a stone mason doing a project at my house. I borrowed his and immediately had the clamps loosened. I slid them back onto the hoses, inserted the pump motor into each hose one by one, and reattached the clamps.

I ran a little water into the washer, checked to see that it didn't leak upon draining, then started a load and left to get my kids from school.

This was a very easy repair. The part was $75 plus about $20 for the expedited delivery. The Sears service call would have been $65 just to walk in the door PLUS whatever they would have charged me for the labor and the part. I am guessing I saved over $200.

The worst part was the gross water remaining in the drain lines. This would have been easily avoided if I'd just taken the time to get the shop vac. Learn from me and don't skip this step!!

disconnected the power cord,removed two screws on lower front edge of machine, removed lower front cover. Got the wet vac ready to suck up the water in the rubber boots when I took the clamps off. Disconnect the pump wires, and two bolts that mounted the pump. wrestled off the boots, and cleaned out the junk in the bottom of the main boot, sucking up water as the boots came off. then reversed the process. Not bad at all. Makes you want to double check for coins so they don't destroy the pump impeller.

Please note that I went online first to get an idea of what was involved.
I removed the back panel using a cordless drill w/attachment for the screws. Then the top. The directions that I received online was very helpful, but I didn't remove the whole tub assembly. I don't recommend doing it my way, but it can be done without removing the front or the whole tub assembly. After the motor and the big pulley was removed, I removed the bottom "shocks". I then took out every one of the cap screws that hold the 2 halves together. When that was done the two halves were loose. I then supported the bottom and took out the two springs. The back half came out quite easily then. It is then necessary to use a mallet to remove the inner drum from the bearing and back half of the tub. I cleaned and inspected the "spider" which was fine except it had old soap in it. Then using a dremel tool with a plastic brush I cleaned/polished the shaft of the inner tub. The new rear shell fit perfectly. Supporting the bottom of the front half of the tub, I then placed the back half assembly (with the pulley replaced on the shaft) in proximity and started the cap screws. It is weird how the 2 halves don't want to stay in correct alignment, but it can be done. After I got most of the top screws in, I used a ratchet wrench to tighten them to almost where the 2 halves were touching. That helped with the alignment process. When all (Ibelieve there are around 17 screws) were started and the 2 halves were aligned, I then started at the top and tightened to a loose fit. The second time around I tightened to semi tight. At this time I could put the springs back on (greatly improves ability to reach the bottom screws). The third time around I put them all tight. Every thing went back on without a problem. I attached water and power to the unit and ran a cycle with the top off and checked for leaks. That's it.

Front-loading Frigidaire washer made by Electrolux:
I removed the one phillips screw that secures the drum, but found the vane did not slide toward the front as I'd read it should. Nor was I able to squeeze the base to release it. I ended up using a rubber mallet and screwdriver to spring the snaps at the bottom of the vane. Once I had two of these on the same side out, I was able to slide the vane forward and remove it. Turns out there was a metal tab, part of the drum, bent into the vane so it couldn't slide for removal. I bent this tab down even with the drum surface, and the new vane slid in easily.

After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.