25344302400 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

The ice maker would over floew then not cycle it would freeze with the forks stuck in the ice! so just get your modle # and serl, # call in and order the hole ice maker it cost only about $120.00 with shipping!! it is so simple to put in just lossen the 2 1/4 screws in the back and lift up then unplug it. you do not have to turn the water off as it works off the pump at the bottem !!( note you nedd to take the ice bucket out it just slides right out !! You will save the service call from A repair man it is really very easy so by the time it took to read this you will have it done !really its that easy!!

I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!

This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

Removed stuff on door, removed 2 screws on top of door, lifted door off replaced one door closure/hinge bearing and one door closing plate and put door back on and wala no more thump.

First I removed the door. Took off the broken parts and replaced them. Easy and fast to repair.

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

I removed the door by removing the top screw from the plastic cover, then slide it forward, then remove the two screws that hold the hinge on and then lifting the door off, once off the lower nylon hinge bearing comes right out of the door, the plate is removed with a screw driver. Installed in reverse order and cluncking was gone. 15 mins

Remove the housing holding the sensors and actuador. The white sensor tape came off the command console, however this was easily replaced by removing the console cover and inserted the tape back. At first the fridge console (lights) did not respond, removed the tape again and re-installed the right way. The most difficult part was trying to push the small hose to fit through the housing and stay in place. In the beginning water was coming out through several places, but removed the housing again, fudgec with the little hose until it fitted snuggly into water dispensing opening. Replaced housing again, screwed all little screws and repair work was complete. The most difficult part was getting a tool that would allow you to guide the hose. Used a fine small plyer to pull through.
Works perfectly now.

Unplugged fridge from outlet. Removed rear panel on freezer side. Removed defrost thermostat from tube and cut wires. Installed new thermostat by matching color coded wires and crimping with supplied connectors and snap back on tube. Reinstalled panel and shelving.

removed ice maker box and disassembled crusher unit on front of box and installed new housing.

First I loosened the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...re-installed the new icemaker first attaching the wires and then fitting over the screw holders and tightened the screws. That was it!

Followed instructions from others on the blog. Shut off water and electricity to the refrigerator. Removed the cardboard plate. Removed the old water valve. Cut the compression valves off and inserted the tubes into the new water valve. Attached the water valve bracket to the fridge. Tightened copper water supply.Turned on the water - no leaks. Plugged the fridge in. Tried the water and ice in the door. No leaks - everything worked perfectly. THANK YOU PARTS SELECT!