1069432481 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.

DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good

I loosen the screws with a nut driver just enough to pull old gasket away from door. This way the door panel and gasket retainer stay in place. I placed gasket from top and worked my way down one side. It took a little more time to slip gasket under retainer evenly, tighten each screw to keep gasket from pulling out while working around door.
30 minuets tops,never had to turn off refrigerator.

While moving our refrigerator when remodeling the kitchen, the front roller assembly shattered from age. The original set was made of nylon and age made it very fragile. Also to make the move easier, we removed the shelves. In the process the lower shelf support stud snapped.

When the parts came the first thing repaired was the shelve support stud. Very easy job to do, just take the pliers and rotate the broken stud counterclockwise a quarter turn and remove. Put new stud in the hole in the same position as the removed stud and gently, but firmly rotate the stud a quarter turn clockwise until it seats.

The front roller assembly requires a socket set, block of wood about 1/2 - 1" thick flashlight and 4’ level. First, remove the front grill by opening both doors of the side by side and pulling the grill out of its left and right side anchors. Close the doors. Place the block of wood under the front support near the center. Remove the leveling screw from the old assembly and install it loosely in the new assembly as the new assembly has no leveling screw. This will now allow you to remove the old assembly by removing the remaining screw in the roller assembly on the front refrigerator support and turning the roller assembly slightly counterclockwise and pulling out the front. You may have to wiggle it, as it sits in a slot on the side support of the refrigerator. To install, place the new assembly in the same position as the old, locate the slot with the flashlight and push the roller set tab into the slot. Attach the support screw and tighten while holding the assembly in place. It is a good idea to replace both rollers at the same time. The same rollers will fit both sides. Now level the refrigerator by tightening the leveling screw until the front rollers now touch the floor. Next, place the level on the top of the refrigerator diagonally but not on top of the door supports. Turn the leveling screws until the bubble is in the center when the level is set in either diagonal position. Replace grill and you done.

Remove the knobs and faceplate to get at the screws behind it. Removing the sensor is a bit involved but everything else is fairly straight forward. See other postings for description / order of operation. Replacement took less than 30 minutes.
Works great now!

Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

lift out old (broken) crisper drawer cover, replace with new. Replace glass shelf. Took longer to clean the shelf off then it took to replace.

I had read here from someone that fixed there shelf support stub and it was very loose, so I was trying to advoid that problem. It took me less then 5 minutes and my only tool was a pair of pliers. A short turn clock wise from the 9 on a clock to the 12 ( which is the top left corner ). then pull the broke shelf stub straight out. Put the new shelf support in the same way you took the old one out and turn counter clock wise 1/4 or from 12 back to 9 and you should have a tight fit. I hope this helped.

Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.

On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove four screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.

Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.

Removed six screws from cover in the back of the freezer. Removed old fan . Removed power wires from old motor. Unclipped old motor from the mounting bracket. Replaced old motor and reversed the rest of the parts. Done

First, I read your instructions on line about how to replace a refrigerator gasket and freezer gasket. We replaced both. The information was extremely helpful since we had never done this before. We then loosed a few screws at a time starting with the outside door corner and worked our way around, replacing the seal as we took off the old seal. Leaving the old seal on as we worked our way around gave us the clearance we needed to insert the new gasket behind the metal plate which holds the gasket to the door. Your easy to use web site made ordering easy and delivery was unbelievably fast. Thanks.

The fridge side would freeze everything regardless of setting. First, unplug the unit. Remove control knobs and pry off the face plate which is snapped on. Remove the four nuts holding the control box to the top of the fridge. Note there is a mettle rod and the thermostat sensor lead inside a clear plastic tube leading from the control box to the back left corner of the fridge. Remove their cover (one screw). Under this cover in the back is the vent assembly screw. Remove it. On the freezer side, you also have to remove the light cover (snap on) and the vent cover behind it (one screw). This allows access to remove the vent on the fridge side. Squeeze the tabs on the vent(freezer side) that lock the vent in place and push it through to the fridge side. Now disconnect all wire connectors between the control box and the fridge. They have locking tabs that have to be pried out to release. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the control box, and one at a time transfer the wires from the old stat to the new one and mount the new one in place. Snap the old thermostat sensor lead out of the vent assembly, straighten it out and pull the plastic tube off. Put a lubricant on the new stat lead to ease in inserting it into the tube. Do not kink the lead. Re assemble in reverse order, plug up the fridge.