Igniter Kit 279311

I used a multi meter to find coils failed in warmed temperature condition.
I tested main switch for different cycle operation. Main switch was worn out inside and not making good contact for soft cycles.
This dryer is 25 years old. I chose to replace all the sensors, fuses, ignitor, gas valve coils, cycle switch and thermostat.
This was cost effective for me, because now, I actually have a good dryer that might just last another 25 years. I might replace the drive belt soon. I'll order from Parts Select. This was easy and fun. Thanks!

I replaced the thermos fuse, thermostat, igniter kit, and the M series
new style coil kit. The problem was the M series coil kit. I replaced
the other parts because this dryer is over 10 years old. I also brought
the radiant flame sensor. I spent $126.19 in parts plus shipping. If I just
just replaced the coil kit it would have 18.61 plus shipping. A new gas dryer like I have would cost about $459.00. I hope to get many more years out of this dryer. The hardest part of this repair for me was getting the front panel back on. I saved the parts that were good for futher repairs. I replaced the drum belt several years ago, still looks in good shape. I think this is a great DIY site. Just follow their instrutions. Somtimes I'll take a picture of the part before I remove it, just to be sure I replace it right.

Took all the advise on the diagnose. Replaced all the parts. My dryers fuse was not at the back. It was located on the blower box.

I ordered the three parts which were the most recommended to fix the problem. Watched the videos for the repairs and saw that the igniter replacement was much more complex than replacing the fuse and thermostat. I replaced the Fuse and thermostat first which are right next to each other and required just removing the back panel of dryer. Ran the dryer and those two parts fixed it so I didn't need to replace the igniter unit.

Took the old parts out and installed the new parts in , everything that you sent fit perfect!!!!!

Followed video you give on your web site very use full used putty knife to undo clips holding on the top lifted top unplugged wire for door switch undid two bolts with socket set lifted off front panel of dryer first changed heat sensor 1 screw unclip wire put on new sensor re clip wire bottom part of sensor goes into a slot line up hole on top put screw back and tighten for the igniter kit unplug wire clip remove on screw with socket set have to put new igniter on bracket with new screw included with kit be careful no to bang igniter when replacing it replace it with screw re clip wire replace front of dryer with two bolts replug wire for door switch close top for thermal fuse and thermostat internal- bias remove nine screws on back of dryer take off panel disconnect vent on my gas dryer had to shut off gas supply and undo gas line thermostat internal -bias and thermal fuse are easy to do thermal internal bias has four wires and one screw just replace wires the way they came off replace screw same with thermal fuse two wires one screw just reverse process be sure not to mix up wires replace dryer back with screws hook up gas line check for any leaks turn on gas supply hook up vent and you should be good to go test dryer hope this help someone like others helped me.

Cleaned out years of fuzz behind lower access panel and noticed where the igniter sits there is a metal tube about 1 inch in diameter. It had rust on the end and was starting to flake away. Found some helpful hints about how to test the igniter. Very easy, just used an ohmeter. Unplugged the 2 pin wire connector and checked for continuity. 1 lead on 1 pin and the other on the other pin., igniter side not the harness side from the dryer. A good igniter should read less than 5 ohms. I don't know the spec. exacttly, but it should not read open or infinite resistance. My meter read an open circuit. Removed the tube and igniter assembly, mine only 2 small bolts. I found the igniter element cracked. Ordered and installed igniter and tube assembly. This was a very easy install. 20 year old dryer works great and it's better than spending $500.00+ on a new one.

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

We followed the on-line video which was very helpful but it took longer for us. But the part didn't fix the problem, so we had to go back on line and research it some more only to find that the more common cure for our problem was the gas coils which were even easier to replace and that did fix the problem.

Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!