WWSS2601KW6 Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

The repair was easy. It just required a little time and patience. There are about a half dozen screws to remove and three of them are very small. I woild suggest a phillips head screwdriver with a magnetic tip for the small screws. They can easly fall into the control unit and be hidden. If they happen to fall, a small pen-type magnet that is expandable will make it easy to retrieve. I used a small set of needle-nose pliers to replace the small metal plates over the plastic pins that hold the water actuator in place. If your are careful, this repair can be done without disconnecting any of the electrical wiring.

This was a replacement part, a simple snap in. What really impressed me was the PartSelect web site and the ease of locating the part and making sure it was the right one. Finally, the price beat out all the others. Since this tray looked like others on the same unit, I needed the details, the different view angles and dimensions to make sure it was correct. No other web site was even close in ease of use or in providing such details. I know I won't waste my time at PartSelect and I've always gotten the right part at the best price.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

REMOVED THE DRAWER, LIFTED OFF THE GLASS, REMOVED THE BROKEN SLIDE, AND PLACED THE NEW SLIDE IN THE PROPER SPACE. REPLCED THE GLASS SHELF TOP AND THE DRAWER. PEICE OF CAKE

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

So simple! I just slid the drawer out of the old frame, inserted it in the new one, and added the glass cover.

Remove the screws that hold the old valve to the side of the refrigerator. Next, detach each plastic tube and attach that tube to the same place on the new valve, and repeat (there are many valves). Afterward, I realized that many of the plastic tubes had become brittle and had mineral deposits, so I bought additional tubing for ice makers and replaced each tube, one at a time.

I unscrewed the cover, took out old filter, put in new filter and replaced cover. End of story. Oh...don't forget to turn off the incoming water supply.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

It was a dreary day, too cold to be outside so I decided to tackle this repair. The first problem was one of the three screws holding the dispenser to the door was rusted in and would not come out. If I was smart I would have stopped there, but in the spirit of Tim the Toolman I found a way to work around it. I was able to get the panel off and disconnect the plug in wires and twist it to the side. The actual change of the paddle was a breeze- three screws and it was done. I turned the front section back into place, connected the wires and proceeded to replace the two remaining screws. All of a sudden the ice diispenser kicked in! First in the crushed mode then in the cube mode. You would be amazed how much ice the dispenser actually holds! I was trying to take screws out to disconnect the wires and catch ice at the same time not; an easy task. Once I had all the ice picked up I tried again and all seemed fine-the chilled water even dispensed again. Problem solved? Only until there was ice in the dispenser again and it decided to start dispensing on its own again. This time I learned and unplugged the appliance from the wall. I took everything apart again and disconnected the wires from the control panel and reassembled without reconnecting it. The repair company will be coming out next week to fix. Hopefully what would have been an easy fix will not become an expensive repair. It was one of those times I should have followed my gut when I ran into the first obstacle. I'll let you know the outcome when the professionals do their work.

First I removed the cover for the filter.(long nut driver) then the two screws holding the filter housing, held the retaining plungers in, and removed the filter housing. Then reversed the process and put it all back together. Simple.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve