Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
spring was deformed and did not hold the door
I removed four screws and thus the front plate at the bottom of the dishwasher. I then removed the old spring, using a long nose pliers and, still using the pliers, replaced it with the new one. The enclosed instructions were helpful as was the previous letter written by someone with the same problem. I then replaced the bottom plate and the door worked as it should. Thanks for once again having the part I needed.
My dishwasher started leaking at the beginning of the summer. We didn't know what to do, but didn't want to call an appliance repairman. Towards fall, a friend came over and pulled it out and found the heating element brass nut which was broken. We put it back in and washed dishes the old-fashioned way for another 3 months after that. I asked at my local hardware store for the part, and thought about trying one of those big-box do-it-yourself stores but never got around to it. Finally after getting sick and tired of doing all the dishes in the house by hand, I found your site, and the part I needed and ordered two (just-in-case). A few days later, we got the part, I pulled the dishwasher out again, screwed on the new nut by hand and put it back into place. We're in business!
The door got heavy upon lowering, spring was stretched.
Unscrewed the diswasher from the counter, pulled it out to access the right main door spring and took out the old spring.I installed the plastic washer then slipped the spring throught it and pulled the spring donw with the needle nose vicegrips and inserted the bottom of the spring into the lower hole. I pushed the dishwasher back andrefastened it to the counter.
Water was leaking through the heating element Accra point.
Isolated the leak and found the nut had split thereby allowing a loose seal and water penetration. Ordered 2 nuts just in case the other goes and the installation was easy. Unplug the unit, remove baseplate, remove screws under the countertop, and slide the unit out a bit. Use needlenode pliers to remove terminal connection and replaced nut. Reverse it for assembly. 3 minutes tops $6 later it is done. Easy money saved by a DIY.
After 22 years of virtually trouble -free service, I could tell by the sound that something was wrong. Water fill ran too long. Float not stuck. Checked and found float switch stuck.
Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!
Dishwasher would not dispense second load of detergent.
Since the bimetal repair kit was not available, I bought the complete detergent cup, gasket, and bimetal switch assembly set. This was still far cheaper than paying for a professional repair. All I had to do after shutting off the power is to remove screws to open up the door (door trim/6 screws & 6 screws on the inner side of door edges to remove outer wall of door). The detergent cup assembly is right there for easy access! I unplugged the 2 electric wire plugs to the bimetal switch (paying attention to which plug goes where for when I reassemble), removed the 6 screws that mount the cup assembly, removed assembly and gasket, cleaned the surfaces, and reassembled with the new assembly. Very, very easy to do and everything works like a charm!
Removed two panels on front bottom to gain access to motor and pump pulley. Looped belt around motor pulley and partially looped belt on larger pump pulley then turned pump pulley together with the belt until belt was fully installed., then coated belt with silicone grease to lubricate it.. very simple procedure.
One note of precaution, UNPLUG power plug before working on appliance.
dish cover not rotating to release second pocket of detergent
followed the scematic on the wesbite that i used to i.d. the repair part needed. removed the front door outside cover (8 screws) removed the bi-metal switch (2 screws), did not need to replace the door latch or spring. replaced the switch and the front door cover and ran the dishwasher to test the new switch. worked fine and has been working fine.
I was not able to follow the instructions exactly since they called for stretching the belt around the back pulley with the left hand. For a woman that prooved too difficult so instead I attached the belt to the back pulley first and used 2 screw drivers (they are thin) to stretch the belt around the front pulley. It took considerable effort but I got it on!! The dishwasher now works. Praise God!!
Removed the front panel below door, 4 screws. Removed 1 screw that help relay on frame. Moved 3 wires from old relay to new. Installed relay to frame, installed panel and done.
Door no longer closed tight enough to prevent water leaking.
Ours is a portable with butcher top. Three screws under the front edge allow the top to be slid forward and off. Then it is obvious which screws release the old flange.
The latch hook needs to be separated from the metal strip and inserted into the front of the flange through the slot, then secured back onto the metal strip.
Don't tighten it too much until you get the thing back together. Then adjust it so the door closes tightly and make it tight. If that machine screw works loose it allows the latch to move sideways which will widen the slot--not good.
It should be checked for tightness every year unless you want to replace that plastic part again. It should have been made of metal to begin with. I'm surprised Maytag would use plastic in such a part.
Not a difficult repair unless you are a total klutz with a screwdriver.
I removed the old flange pieces before ordering the new one, then repositioned the washer after attaching the new one to the washer top. I then attached the flange to the counter top resulting in a more stable appliance. It was simple to remove the screws and install the new flange.
detergent cup would not always open during wash cycle
first I removed the 4 screws that hold the bottom part of the door cover and then removed the 6 bolts with a power screw driver with nut attachment.I then reomved the 2 wires which are color coded and noted which one went where.I removed the old unit and installed the gasget and new detergengent cup,the wires,bolts and door screws.You do not have to remove the screws to the top part of the door.The screws are located inside the door on each side. Took about 20 minutes.
I recently bought a vacation home in New Hampshire, and had a very detailed home inspection performed. The dishwasher unit was checked out to be in fine shape. Before moving in, I had all the hardwood floors refinished, including the kitchen, and everything looked great. After moving in and using the dishwasher twice, it developed a major leak coming from the bottom of the unit. "Here goes more money that I don't have, to hire an appliance repairman to fix this leak!" I decided to take the bottom kick panel off the dishwasher to see where the leak was coming from. It was coming from the the connection of the heater element at the bottom of the dishwasher. I found a brass nut had been cracked and wouldn't stay tight any more. I ordered the replacement nut from Partselect, RECEIVED IT THE NEXT DAY!!!!! using regular ground shipping, and installed the new nut using a socket set, and tested the unit. No more leaks!! Partselect saved me at least $150.00 on a service call for a $3.50 part. I'm not the handiest guy around, but even this was easy! I also scored big points with the wife on my handyman repair! Thanks Partselect!
Just as everybody explained, 4 screws for the door panel, 6 screws for the dispenser, out and in, 15 minutes!!! There are plenty of screws on the door but, once i knew i was looking for 4 screws, it was a cinch!!! Thanks for that tip. All my appliances are the same age so i 'll be back to this site again!!
