WTW7600XW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

removed back of washer. turned washer on its side .removed the 3 screws holding pump and the 2 hoses and the electric connection pump came right out. did the reverse to install the new one.stood up the washer and ran it to check for leaks.no leaks installed back of washerand done

Have the Maytag washing machine little over2 years and the water pump cracked - very disappointed.
Anyway, removed the back panel, unhooked the hoses, used 5/16 wrench to loosen up the screws, unplugged the power connector than replaced it with a new water pump.

It was an easy repair that I taught my 18 yrs old.

This is a cook stove that is used 5 months a year. We have not fixed it yet because we are now in Florida the stove is in New York. We ordered that part just before we left NY for FL so the repair will be done in June of 2021.
George Clark

This is an easy one. Snap off the agitator cap with a screwdriver.
Remove the single but and agitator.
Remove 6 phillips head screws.
Lubricate the bearing and coax it off the spindle.

This was the second time I did this repair, so it looks like this mechanism lasts about 3 years. I found the video instructions on your website very helpful, with one major exception. On my Maytag Bravos XL machine, there are no clips on the front of the top plate to release by pushing in a putty knife. Rather, there are two vertical brackets on the back of the top plate that are loosened or removed, and then the top can be slid forward about an inch and lifted up.

Also, the tiny electrical connection plugs are secured by plastic clips on the sides of the receptacles. Those clips just need to be spread apart a little in order to unplug the connectors; i.e., don't pull too hard on those plugs, or look for a release lever on the plugs themselves.

Repair is straight-forward. Thanks!

Follow step by step YouTube channel for this.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

The most difficult was to lift the top up. Releasing the clips was tough to push in and it broke some porcelain. The 3 screws on the plastic instrument cover was all that was required. Track the wires and remove the plug in and pull the wires through the access hole and misc clips, a Phillips screw driver removes the plastic switch .Simply place the new switch under the lid and the worst is done. Once the lid was up, 10 minutes and your done.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Used shop vac to remove as much water as possible. Turned washing machine on side to access pump. Removed old pump. Installed new pump. Used nutdriver to attach three fasteners and pliers to attach clamps to hoses.

Follow the video instructions.
No brainer..

The part we needed wasn’t pictured — nor the quantity identified. There are 4 absorbers required for full replacement. I received one absorber — 3 1/2 inches X 1 1/2 inch wide X 1/8 inch thick. Including shipping, the cost was $53.00!! Outrageous! A 10 foot roll of the same thing can be bought online for less than $20.00.

By the way, it didn’t solve the problem.

Paul

I got the three rubber elbows to quickly (at an additional price). They were the correct part and fit exactly. I replaced the aggravating spring clamps with new radiator-type screw clamps which made the job easier and in my opinion better. Then I devised a little hardware cloth "fence" around the bottom to the washer to keep the rat out. The job is tough enough in that you must tip the washer forward to get at the lower elbows. Also probably a good idea to adjust the feet "in" as far as possible to minimize rodent access from the bottom.

I removed the two hinges in the lid by unscrewing them from the lid and sliding them out from the underside of the lid. I also needed to replace the hinge assembly in the washer body on the left side. I unscrewed the three screws in the back of the controls module and lifted the cover off. I unscrewed the furthest forward and left screw that went down to the hinge assembly. I then removed the trim ring around the bleach pour spout and unclipped the bleach hopper from the lid. Next I unlatched the lid assembly with a metal putty knife. Once inside I moved the bleach hopper out of the way and gained access to the left side hinge assembly. I removed the other screw holding the hinge in place and changed out the hinge assembly. I then worked backwards putting screws and pieces back in place. Finally, I installed new door hinge pins in the left and right sides to reattach the lid.

1st watch a video on replacement of this pump.
My main issue was the guard I had to install and the correct way to
put it in. I know I got it right.
The pump is very noisy, loud!
It pumps out just fine.
Want to know if this is normal, Loud pump.
Let me know.
Thanks, Dave