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Ice Maker Quit Making Ice
In reading other post for this problem on the Parts Select web site, I checked the solenoids on the Inlet Valve (PN WPW10341320) located behind the refrigerator. A previous post indicated the solenoid should read between 500 and 1500 ohms. In checking, I read around 290 ohms, and confirmed the solenoid was ok. There were other items to check, including the primary water inlet valve and filter. I confirmed water these were ok as the water dispenser on the unit worked properly, and the filter has been replaced on a regular basis. I Ordered a new Ice Maker (PN PS11738120) and replaced as directed in previous post. After several days, the new ice maker did not work. I removed the solenoid connector for the water dispenser which is located next to the ice maker solenoid on the inlet valve, and connected to the ice maker solenoid. I depressed the water flow switch located on the door and the solenoid opened, and dispensed water into the ice tray. I confirmed the solenoid was not the issue. I also was concerned about the ice maker over flow lever that is connected to the ice maker. this switch shuts off the ice maker if the ice level is too high. I checked the old ice maker and determined a blue and yellow wire were connected to the switch, and terminated in the buss connector that connects the ice maker and the refrigerator. in normal condition, the switch should be closed. when I checked the replacement ice maker, I found the switch was open, which kept power from turning on the water supply to the ice maker. Parts Select sent a replacement, and after installation, the unit worked properly. Issue solved.
Upper coupling broken on Ice Bucket Assembly and inner segment and shroud broken on Chute Assembly.
I was disappointed you have to purchase the entire Ice Bucket Assembly in order to get the upper coupling. I also ordered the two seals and washer, only to find they are included in the Chute Assembly. The Chute was a little difficult to remove and reinstall. Other than that the Ice Bucket slides right in and the Chute Assembly requires 2 Phillips screws and 2 hex screws to be removed and reinstalled.
The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.
Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked
Brand new refrigerator with space for 6 shelves in the freezer but sold with only two. I bought two tiny shelves for $280. Yes, ridiculously expensive but what good is a freezer without shelves.
Steps to replace Whirlpool evaporator fan motor 1. Watch numerous DIY Youtube videos 2. Move frozen food to refrigerator section, close refrigerator door 3. Cut power to refrigerator 4. Remove all shelves and bins in freezer section 5. Back panel has two parts, a top and a bottom section 6. Unclip small shroud covering screw bolt in upper left corner holding top panel. Remove screw bolt 7. Gently pull and work top panel out 8. Remove screw bolts from all four corners in lower panel and remove bottom panel 9. Verify power has been turned off 10. Unclip grounding wire 11. Unclip evaporator fan motor from power 12. Remove whole cradle holding evaporator fan motor. Note orientation of cradle. Fan blade is slightly angled toward the back of freezer. In other models, the cradle may not be removeable. 13. Remove plastic fan with firm pull 14. Unclip bottom brace to remove evaporator fan motor 15. Replace old grommets in bottom brace and on top of evaporator fan motor with the new grommets 16. Install new evaporator in cradle and clip-in the bottom brace 17. Install new fan blade on motor 18. Place cradle with new evaporator fan motor back in freezer 19. Reclip power and ground wire 20. Turn on power and test if working correctly 21. Turn off power 22. Complete steps from 8 to 2 in reverse
Lifted old bin up and pulled away from door. Took new bin, placed in door and set down in place. Replaced old broken bin with new bin. Added additional bin for more storage.
Took a putty knife and Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place
Lower Light Socket removed and Wires capped with wire nuts
My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.
Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!