WRS23W0AW1 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

very easy to do. just snap into place

Remove power from refrigerator. Pull out the drip tray below paddle. Removed the 3 screws behind tray. Gently pull control panel out and remove the ribbon cable plug from panel. Set panel aside. Remove three screws holding panel housing to door, then pull out housing slightly and disconnect harness plug behind left side of housing. Pull housing out 3-4 inches. Look at the way paddle tabs engage ice dispenser switch mechanism. Remove the left paddle hinge screw and plate and loosen the right hinge screws(these also hold the water paddle hinge) Remove broken paddle by pulling out from right hinge plate and down. Install new paddle under right hinge plate, engage new paddle tabs correctly onto dispenser switch, install left hinge plate and screw, then tighten hinge screws. Reconnect harness plug, reinstall 3 housing to door screws, reconnect ribbon plug to control panel and reinstall panel screws. Reinstall drip tray. Reconnect power to refrigerator and check operation of ice and water paddles.

Removed screws holding unit and removed unit. Removed switch from connectors in unit. Replaced unit without switch. On day switch arrived (delivery was prompt) my wife replaced switch by attaching the two connectors and slipping into unit without having to remove entire unit. How easy was that!!!

Noticed the evap fan wasn't working, so trying to disconnect the wire broke the connection so had to order a new motor. Installed the motor but it still didn't work. Had a technician look at it and he said it was the control board. Ordered and installed control board and still didn't work. The only element left is the evap thermostat. Jumped the thermostat and it worked so ordered and installed a thermostat. It works now

Took off Door on Refr. and unscrewed Doorstop,
removed doorstop with broken Bearing and replaced with new Parts. Took about 20 Minutes
including reattaching Door. A 10 year old can do it.

First I cleaned out the side door then, removed the three screws on top of the door. Lifted the door off and set it carefully on a kitchen mat.

I had to use the pliers to remove the existing bearing hinge as it had disintegrated in the door. Once it was out the new hinge slid right into place and I reinstalled the door. I had help with the door. It’s much easier with two people to get proper alignment and to hold it in place while you reattach the screws.

I would have to say the hardest part of this repair was cleaning out the refrigerator.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

Loosened the 2 screws a little so that it would slide up and off then unplugged the wire harness.
Installed the new one in reverse order and works like a champ.

it was really easy changing the ice maker. the only trouble i had was the wiring. it was very stiff and hard to route. it did not work at first but that was my fault did not have the connector plugged in all the way.since then it works great.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Remove shelves and rear panels to get to motor. Motor is held in place on shroud by simple strap. Remove fan blade, then un hook strap, remove and save rubber spacers on old motor to reuse to remount new motor. New motor Mew motor has wiring harness that is universal. Cut out the three wires that go to the new motor leaving long as possible, cut wires from old motor as long as possible, strip ends of all wires 1/2 inch, connect wires by color,slip into provided wire connectors and crimp. Pull on wires to insure connection. Tie wires together so they don't touch the coils. Plug in and check operation. If all is working unplug and replace all covers and shelves. Plug back in and it will take few hours to reach operating temperature. Video of side by side repair shows easy removal of panels and motor.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.