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Water continued to flow into machine during drying cycle and afterwards
This was a very easy repair. Just followed the steps in the videos on the website (I replaced both the hot and cold inlet valves, so two different videos, but the process for each is similar) and it couldn't have been simpler.
Remove door assembly from the hinge, unscrewed screw from the panel. Leave couple screws to hold Hinges. Remove the rubber seal but stretching to spring out, not having rt tool (long nose plier). Remove rubber partially close to the hinge. Remove the Hinges and replaced it, then reverse putting together back. Use small screw driver to put spring tensioner back. Reinstall frame door to hinge, double check everything.
Noticed small tear in hose bellows and leak during reassembly
I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.
Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.
5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).
I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.
Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.
The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!
It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.
Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.
just put new part in very simple only problem was shipping yall used fedex went to 4 states and one state twice they finally gave it to USPS so it took almost 9 days to get here
Tub assembly main bearing was sized, and grinding. Wore shaft 16th down.
Pretty straight forward video located on YouTube. Video is about 30 min long. Watched it for an overview and did it myself being mechanically inclined.
I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.