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WDP350PAAB2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the WDP350PAAB2
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Heating element was not working
Very easy repair !!! I ordered my heating element on a Friday , it was on my porch Saturday. I used the directions that Parts.com sent me . I also read everyones Installation instructions ..... Every step was very easy . I did watch a utube video , so I couldn't screw this repair up......... My wife had a new dishwasher picked out for $ 579.00 , my part was $29 dollars , savings $550 dollar ...... After the repair , I ran the dishwasher and the blinking clean lite took care of itself ... The water has never been this hot and dryers the dishes like it was a new dishwasher ...... My advice , read everyone's Installation instuctions and watch the utube video .....
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Heating Element
  • Joseph from Mountain Top, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water didn’t drain
The repair was really easy. First disconnected electricity staring with fuses and removing wires from dishwasher, then disconnected drain hose and water hose. Pulled it out and removed pump turning clockwise no need for tools and same way installed new one. Very easy
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Drain Pump
  • Ilir from WETHERSFIELD, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Both outside door handles turned very beige
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
Parts Used:
Spray Paint - 12 oz. - White
  • Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
22 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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These 3 parts were broken or missing.
I had to watch a You Tube Video and the Repair was basically snapping these parts on the rack and glide. No tools needed!
Parts Used:
Dishrack Roller Assembly Rack Track Stop Rack Track Stop
  • Sally from COCHRANVILLE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Heater element broke inside washer
I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Heating Element
  • KS from Garland, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench (Adjustable)
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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water not heating
The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Heating Element
  • Raymond from Palmer, AK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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The original faucet adapter for portal dishwasher kept misting water out the sides of the adapter most annoyingly.
So I decided to stick in some CLR to see if it would clean it up. Well it got considerably worse. So ordered the new faucet adapter, threaded adapter and the two washers, due to not knowing what i would need. It came like unbelievably fast considering it was Christmas time. Unscrewed the old one from the faucet, screwed on the new one. hooked up the dishwasher, watched it for a bit for any leaks at the connection, and it worked great! I seem to have more water pressure too coming from the sink faucet. Thank you so much for the quickness in sending out my order! -- Scott
Parts Used:
Faucet Adapter
  • Scott from Oak Harbor, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lost stop from one side of top rack. Rack could be pulled off track.
Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.
Parts Used:
Rack Track Stop
  • Sheila from FAYETTEVILLE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dishwasher wasn’t draining
1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Drain Pump
  • Kelly from WALNUT CREEK, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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My dishwasher's heated dry cycle wasn't heating up
After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat
  • Brendan from SARATOGA SPGS, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Friction sleeve had torn, resulting in dishwasher door 'falling' when opening.
I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter (two screws under the countertop), and pulled it out about a foot so I could access the friction sleeve. I used a needle nosed pliers to slip a spring latch off the door. Then I slipped the new friction sleeve on and reattached the spring. Tested the door. Success! Super easy. About 5 minutes of work.
Parts Used:
Friction Sleeve
  • Jm from OSHKOSH, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dishwasher leaking from right corner
Very easy repair, take out old seal replace with new insuring the seal in pressed in tightly, while installing. corners were a little tricky.
Parts Used:
GASKET
  • Darrell from CLARKESVILLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Detergent and Rinse Dispenser door latch completely worn out.
I am NOT an appliance technician. I am simply a somewhat handy homeowner. Removal of outer door panel requires removal of two screws from inside the top of the door assembly at the latch, as well as all of the obvious mating screws from around the perimeter of the inside of the door assembly. Use a #15 torx driver bit. Pull top of panel out (away from the machine) by maybe two inches, then lift the outer panel up to clear the bottom end of it from the lower positioning brackets. DO NOT lever the top of the panel outward. Keep it close to the inner door. It may take bit of an upward tug to dislodge. Careful here - the outer panel will simply fall free. Two wire pigtails that are connected to components on the inner door are short, so be careful not to strain them after dislodging the outer panel. One is connected to the dispenser. Disconnect both as to provide good clearance for the component replacement. The main wire harness is of sufficient length as to not cause a problem. The six 3/16 hex head screws holding the dispenser in place are easy to remove. There are two small sheet metal tabs that keep the device in place after the screws are removed, but a rectangular mounting frame or bezel will come off, along with the little black curtain that protects the unit. The tabs are at upper left and lower right at the perimeter of the opening in the inner panel. They must be levered gently as to allow the dispenser to push inward for removal. After removal, spend some time cleaning the inner surface of the inner panel as to ensure that the new device will make a watertight contact when fastened in place. Bend the tabs slightly back to an inward position, and install the new dispenser with the socket and motor to your left as you look at it from outside the machine. It clicks in to place and stays put. The bezel mounts only one way (in terms of being upside down) and the flat surface must be toward the inner door. Re-positioning the little black curtain is tricky but if you follow the marks in the material from the previous mount it should work out OK. Tighten the screws evenly as to ensure a good seal. Move the outer cover closer and reconnect the two plugs. Use an object to wedge the inner door open by a few inches, and lift the front panel such that you can position it and slide it back down on the inner panel as to re-engage the lower holding brackets. This keeps the bottom of the panel in place during the reassembly. Now for the fun part... The upper end of the outer panel has to be positioned just right against the inner panel in order to seat the two long screws that straddle the latch assembly from the inside. You'll need clamps, or two people. There's a flat rubber seal on the top edge of the inner door. See that it is seated properly, and then that it becomes covered by the outer panel. If one person firmly holds the panels precisely in position, then the other person can install the screws to a point of being mildly snug. The other two longer screws go in the top-most holes at the upper/outer corners of the door assembly. Place them next. From there, you can carefully replace all the rest of the screws. Only after all of the screws are in place should you make all of them tight. You're done.
Parts Used:
Detergent and Rinse Dispenser with Cap
  • Ron from CAPE CORAL, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dishwasher wouldn't work
Looked under machine, saw wire going to heater was burned off.Seal on heater failed, water leaked onto terminal, shorted and burned, ruined plastic terminal nut.Replaced heater and wire terminal, and nut, took minutes, works great.
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Heating Element Terminal Nut
  • Greg from Lebanon, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dishwasher would not dry (heat)
First I identified the problem by checking the plug ends of the heater coil with an ohm meter. I quickly odered the part and when it arrived a few days later, I simply pulled off the electrical connectors, unscrewed the two bolts, removed the old/broken coil, put in the new coil and tightened down the nuts snuggly.
Nothing to it. I then had to reset the error code and it is working like new.
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Heating Element
  • Glenn from Daleville, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the WDP350PAAB2
31 - 45 of 176