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SWXG831HQ2 Westinghouse Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the SWXG831HQ2
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Gas flame turns off after a while, dryer keeps turning but no heat is generated.
Before this fix which worked beautifully, I tried replacing the flame sensor which did not work. To read that story, search under part number PS459818 (Flame Sensor). Our model is a Westinghouse, so access to the unit is a bit different than the other stories. It's a stacked front-loader sitting on top of a washing machine.

1. Open the little front door (lower left side) by unscrewing the little screw right below it. The door will pivot and slide out vertically.
2. Disconnect the electrical main lead coming from the back of the unit (just in case).
3. Close the gas switch lever on main gas pipe coming from the back on left side (just in case).
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on top of the metal bracket holding the two coils. The screws have to be removed completely along with the bracket. It's easy, they are right in front and there is room for the screwdriver. Use a thin long one instead of one with multiple bits to better align with the screws, which are very close to the coils.
3. The two coils slide right out and are very different so it's easy to keep them straight. Remove electrical connectors before or after removing the coils (I marked the plastic on top with a sharpie to keep them in the right orientation).
4. Drop in the two new coils and reconnect them to the electrical leads.
5. Reconnect main electrical lead from back (match wire colors)
6. Reopen gas lever on gas pipe.
7. Drop in front cover at an angle, tilt vertically and put screw back underneath. Use magnetized screwdriver or a piece of scotch tape to hold the screw or it might fall off the screwdriver.
8. Voila'. It worked.

This website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fix it's just like new. In 1994 we used parts bought here to fix our washing machine (Westinghouse LT350RXW1). That machine is now 15 years old and still going!
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • Giuseppe from San Francisco, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer drive belt came off dryer drum several times.
Stud was coming off the motor cradle- bad swedge at the factory, Belt tensioner went on stud.

Removed small access panel in back. Remove tensioner and set to left. Remove inner and outer panels from the front of the laundry center to expose exhaust duct and blower. Loosen control panel and remove, disengaging four keyed plugs. Remove lint screen. Loosen two screws inside dryer to disengage exhaust duct and remove, Unscrew aproximately six screws and remove front half of blower. Remove clip from blower shaft, and cautiously pry the blower wheel off the shaft (this is the touchiest part of the job. Some force is necessary). Remove the back half of the blower housing by unscrewing the three screws exposed by the wheel (access through the front) and the standoff by the heat/moisture sensor (access through the back).

You have now exposed the motor. It is held on to the cradle with two clips. Remove the clips by putting your thumb on the clip above the hook and squeeaing while prying the end of the clip off with a screw driver. One clip is accessed through the back and one through the front. When the motor is loose unscrew the two screws through the back panel that keep the cradle in place. Pull it back and remove it, while holding the motor up.

Installation is the reverse. Make sure the new part matches the old part exactly. Make sure that the soft bushings on the motor are centered on the cradle before you clip it in place.
Parts Used:
CRADLE & STUD
  • David from Bayonne, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Gas dryer wouldn't stay hot.
I definitely would not have tried to do this had it not been for the other testimonials written here. But it sounded so easy, I had to just try it (the repair man estimated that with parts and labor, we would be looking at somewhere between $250 and $300!).

The repair itself took less than 15 min, but I spend a good deal of time looking around the garage for a few screwdrivers and my socket set (me and tools don't meet too often). I could simply pry up the top cover on the dryer with my hands, then got it all the way up after removing two screws from the lint trap and undoing this really annoying wire connector thing. From there the front panel lifted off. To remove the drum, just had to release the tensonier on the belt, and it came right out. From this point it was really obvious where the replacement parts would be going. A few screws later, and I could swap the parts, and put humpty dumpty back together again.

It works!!!
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • David from Petaluma, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Lound noise inside dryer
1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Joseph from little Egg Harbour, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Loud Squealing
Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • William from Hudson Falls, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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drive belt old and stretched
unplugged machine. pried up with large regular screwdiver on top washer lid. removed two phillips screws bottom of front panel, had to use rubber mallet to drive front panel down to remove as was rusty and old. removed old belt using screwdriver. put new belt under tub pulley and put belt on small pulleys. kept moving tub and springs by pushing on tub. Took several tries to get new belt to go on the large tub pulley but finally did it. I used the instructions you gave for replacing broken drive belt and it worked. replaced front panel and two phillips screws, put top back on and away it went.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • George from Sault Ste. Marie, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Drive Belt Was Noisy-Slipping
I just popped up the top front using a large straight (slotted) screw driver, then removed the 2 screws at the bottom front, then the whole front panel popped down about a half inch to be lifted out of the way. I found the old drive belt way down under the motor (still attached as normal), very near the floor and removed the worn out belt by hand, and replaced it with the new belt by hand also. The spring loaded belt tightener- idler wheel makes this a very simple process to accomplish. Then, I replaced the front panel-- all done. Works like new.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Steve from Carrollton, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer belt broke
This is a washer/ dryer combo unit. Start at the top of the unit. Remove top plate then remove cover between dryer and washer. Remove control panel. Now remove front panel with dryer door. Unplug harness connector. With area now open put on new belt around drum and motor. Be sure you put belt around idler pulley correct way so there is tension on belt. Put back together in reverse order. Took me about 40 minutes since I cleaned and vacuumed out appliance.
Parts Used:
Multi-Rib Drum Belt
  • Michall from KEYESPORT, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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transmission wore out
After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.
Parts Used:
Agitator Drive Block
  • Tim from Flemington, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Smell of rubber under dryer. Inspection proved belt cracked and shinny worn spot.
Installation was easy, however watch repair instructions video for your model number to easily remove front access panel.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Fred from WOLVERINE, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Door catch broken
Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • TJ from SCOTT DEPOT, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Very loud high pitch squeal while using the dryer
The loud noise was present only while using the dryer of my washer/dryer combo unit. I traced the noise down to the rear center of the dryer and I noticed that the noise would stop or be quieter if I pushed on this area with my hand while the dryer was running. I realized there must be some type of bearing supporting the weight of the dryer drum while allowing it to rotate. I did a Google search for parts on my model # and found Parts Select. I used the parts diagrams to figure out what parts were the likely problem. I found the rear bearing part# and watched the very helpful video showing how to replace it.

I removed the drum on my dryer and found the bearing and socket to be completely dry (no grease) and showing a lot of wear. The dryer heat element surrounds the bearing so I think 10 years of use had dried up all the grease. I purchased the bearing kit so I swapped out the old parts for everything in the kit. I also noticed the drum belt was split in places and little black dots all over the inside of the drum area were small pieces of the belt. I replaced the belt and took the opportunity to vacuum the drum area because it was covered with 10 years of lint. The bearing replacement video was extremely helpful and I was able to replace parts easily even though I had a different dryer than in the video. My dryer is much quieter now and I didn't have any screws left over!! I will definitely shop Parts Select again!!
Parts Used:
Multi-Rib Drum Belt Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Danny from WENTWORTH, SD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Worn out dryer lint screen
Placed new lint filter in proper slot.
Parts Used:
Dryer Lint Screen
  • Barbara from WASHOUGAL, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer would not turn on, no power. Since i already have replaced thermal limiter switch, i knew exactly what to do and also how to shorten installation
Remove 2 screws from back of unit, remove top by lifting and pulling up, set aside. Using pliers,needle-nose, remove the 2 wires from switch, then using a magitized philips screw driver, remove 2 screws holding switch to back of unit, replace switch, reassemble everything. 20 minutes, boom, ur done, dry some clothes now
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Daniel from SAN ANTONIO, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Broken belt
Pry up top from front remove 2 phillip screws at lower front panel slip belt under tub pulley then around motor pulley push belt tensioner towards back of machine slide belt onto tensioner pulley. (Done)
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Sharon from TEMPLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the SWXG831HQ2
136 - 150 of 452