S8757W1 Roper Range - Instructions

Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad igniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.

Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connected the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)

removed the plug that had burned up on one of the top burners, replaced it with a new plug purchased from parts select., it was quite easy ,I unpluged stove and raise the top exposing wiring for the burners cut the old plug wiring and connected the wires for the new plug with connectors and shrink tubing supplied in the repair kit easy and quick repair

We removed with a screwdriver the two main screws that held the bottom of the oven in place and removed the bottom oven piece; then we removed the two nuts with a socket wrench that held the element in place. We then discovered that the element wire did not completely egress to the point of being able to disconnect from within the oven, so we removed the storage drawer below the oven and that provided access to disconnect the element wire and reconnect the new element wire and then reverse the steps to install the new element, which worked fine upon first use and continues to work fine.

I followed the instructions provided.

Called repair man and described the problem. He said I could do it myself. PartSelect had the part and a previous description on the PartSelect site told me how to do the repair. It was easy. Be careful when removing the igniter nuts. I used a very small amount of sewing machine oil so as not to strip the threads. works great.

this was so simple.. attach with 2 screws and plug in and done.. less than a minute.. to be honest it took me longer to put the oven back together than installing the new part. lol

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.

Pulled back panel off, then removed entire front body. Accessed the blower and the lint cover and removed. Removed drum and belt. Removed motor and replaced, reassembled and plugged in and it worked. Thank you

Someone did the repair for me.

My dryer is probably more than 20 years old. I know, I know, but I decided to fix it anyway. I followed the same steps as the other posters here. However, I almost never fix anything like this and the dryer is in a small space with only a couple of inches of clearance on either side.
The repair took 10 hours off and on over 2 days. You will definitely need another set of hands at various times like when you are unscrewing the fan from the motor shaft and when you are reinstalling the drum and belt.
Getting the motor mount clips off the frame was a huge pain and getting the motor back in place and the clips on correctly was a 3 hour learning experience. Make sure you have all the wires hooked back up BEFORE you hook up the motor mount clips. When you seat the motor on the mounts the wiring hookups need to be almost on the bottom. Check the instructions drawing for placement.
You don’t actually remove the fan cover you just unscrew the mounting screws and push it to the side.
Re-hooking up the belt and belt tightener is not intuitive but you will eventually figure it out. I found some generic dryer belt installation drawings on the Internet that showed me how to do it.
The photocopied instructions that come with the motor are kind of fuzzy after a few generations of photocopying.
In the end, it worked! It is also much quieter now.

Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts together with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.

I removed the back before I relized that the motor was under the drum. I removed the front and the drum and accessed the motor. I used a small flat head screw driver to prythe brackets that held th motor in place. I had a bit of a problem removing the motor from the fan. Then I read the web site and figured out that the treading was a LEFT thread. Still had some problems and ended up removing the pully wheel and using a pipe wrench to get the fan off the motor.

I wish I had taken a picture of the pully and belt to see how it went back together, but it went back easy enough.

Very pleased with my effort and guess I saved about $300 bucks on the repair, and the 2 plus weeks to get the guy to my house.