RT18BMXVW10 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

Removed old valve first, found part # on it.
Entered part # into search box on computer.
It came up with the right replacement part the first time!!!
Ordered part, it came in sooner than I thought it would.
I attached the supply line, pushed in the plastic outlet hose, connected the power line, and attached it to the refrigerator frame. We had a full container of ice the next morning.It couldn't of had been easier.

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

loosened screws holding gasket, removed old gasket, installed new gasket tightening screws as I went from top first. The only problem I encountered was that the door did not fit correctly when I finished tightening the screws. It was tight at the top and open at the bottom (gasket not even touching refrigerator frame). I did not realize until then that the outer metal door is quite flimsy and is only made stiff by the molded plastic interior door liner and shelves. I simply had to loosen the screws I had just tightened, align the door by closing it and then tightening the screws so that the door retained that position.

Ice make was still working but no water coming in to make ice . Pulled refrigerator back and found water valve at bottom of refrig close to the floor. I disconnected water line and electric plug - went to whirlpool web site - no help at all to confusing - found partselect and compaired picture of old valve with picture of new valve . When I got it in mail it took 30 min to install - working fine now hint - mark top of electric plug so you install correctly

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Removed the 3 screws in the back of the freezer, pulled back the metal back plate on the freezer. Removed 4 nuts on the plastic housing that holds the fan and pulled the housing down. Disconnected the wires, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the fan to the housing. Replaced old fan motor with new fan motor onto housing just as it was before. Reconnected the wires. And tested the motor. Worked great. Re-assembled everything as it was and it was done.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bracket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

1. Removed the icemaker door
2. Removed the two screws from the underside of the icemaker unit
3. Removed the slide-on plastic cover that protects the power cable connector
4. Removed the icemaker unit
5. Removed the two screws from the control unit
6. Pulled the control unit from the icemaker unit
7. Installed the new control unit and reinstalled the icemaker assembly

A repairman wanted to charge me $250 to do what I did in about 20 minutes for about $120.

Ok its the garage "adult " Beverage chiller.

Easy fix First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires assembly was the reverse. and the beverages never got warm..

Ordered shelf support stud kit. Product was promptly delivered, and contained the parts as shown on website. Took longer to open the package than to replace the missing shelf support bracket. No problems. Would order from them again.