RGB745BEA2WH Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.

I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model...
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing handles were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.

layed the range on its side and removed the gas valve installed the new valve leak checked and tested works like new. Great service and parts availability, shipping was fast.

removed grills that pots sit on. Removed metal disc's from flame dispensing positions. Removed old left and right pan units. Placed with new pan units. Put metal disc's back in place. Put grills back in place.

Replaced old with new.

STOVE Much easier to perform than expected. First, pull the plug. Second, lift door off hinges and remove bottom storage door. Then remove bottom tray (2 thumbscrews) and the head spreader below that (1 screw). Now disattach the two wire nuts that attach the igniter to electric (from bottom, where door was). I guess this has been changed once. If it had not been, might have had to cut these lines. Then, back inside the stove, remove the flame delivery tube or whatever it's called. It kind of twists as it pulls up. From there, it's easy to disattach the igniter with a wrench and then reassemble all in reverse order. Hardest part was getting one of the wire nuts to take. One of the replacement ones just did not grab, so reused one of the preexisting.
OVEN Only hard part was getting the stovetop to release. Take off all the burner guards and such. Then lift the top slightly to locate the two push clips. Push each back in turn with a screwdriver, and this releases the stovetop, which rises up until it rests on two rests. Piece of cake to remove th electrode and attach new one.
All working fine!

Took top off, removed wires from old spark module and put them on new one. Very easy and quick, works very well now.

Although the parts did fit, some modification was needed to remove the excess tabs as it appears these parts were for multiple applications. However the end result was a good fit and reapirs were successful.

I was a bit hesitant to perform this repair but attempted it due to the other write-ups which were very helpful. The repair went very well and was quite easy. There was a suggestion to remove the gas defuser (the pipe thing that has the igniter attached), I believe loosening this defuser made the whole repair so much easer and quicker. Trying to remove the two screws that hold the igniter without this approach would have been very difficult. I was hesitant to do this but removing the 3 screws that hold the defuser in place was not a problem at all.

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.

1. Removed oven door.
2. Removed shelves.
3. Removed oven bottom.
4. Removed pan drawer.
5. Removed the 2 burner mounting nuts at back of oven pan drawer opening.
6. Removed top burner nut.
7. Pulled igniter out from top.
8. Snipped igniter wires.
9. Removed igniter from burner
10. Attached new ignitor wires with the enclosed wire nuts.
11. Attached new igniter to burner.
12. Replaced burner.
13. Pushed excess wire out of the oven through opening at back of pan drawer.
14. Reinstalled burner mounting nuts at back of drawer.
15. Reinstalled burner nut at top of burner
16. Reinstalled oven bottom, oven door and pan drawer.

I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.

Removed spark module only two small nuts. Inside was six wires on terminal. Removed one by one and connected right to the new module. Easy job 10 minutes and finished.