RGB740GES2WH Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one word to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!

Slid off the oven door and loosened the hinge assembly. Removed the storage drawer to unhook the spring and then took off the old hinge assembly.

Inserted the spring into the new hinge assembly and then installed it - just tightened the screws. Hooked the spring into the lower point. Slid in the oven door and tested it so that is opened/closed easily. Cleaned under the oven while the storage drawer was out.

We can now bake bread, pizza, etc. What a relief.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

The repair went surprisingly well! My only problem was the bottom screws needed WD40 to loosen, but otherwise the parts went in easily.

Removed the door. Unscrewed the hinge from front of oven. Took broiler drawer out. Unhooked the spring. Removed hinge. Screwed new hinge in. Rehooked the spring. Slid oven door back on hinges. Mission accomplished. Oven door works like a champ. Wife happy.

• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall.
• Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line.
• Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools.
• Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is.
• Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place.
• Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is.
• Remove the igniter 1-2 screws
• Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered****
• Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under****
• Reassemble the range and replace the drawer.
• Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.

Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.

Really easy.
1) Pulled up on oven door and removed it.
2) Removed lower drawer to access springs.
3) Pay attention to which hole the springs are attached under the oven.
4) Remove spring with Needle Nose Plier. If you remove by hand, the spring will likely cut your finger....like mine.
5) Unscrew 3 screws of old hinge assembly.
6) Reverse process when placing new assembly in place.

I followed the instructions of a PartSelect.com customer that was posted on the website. The instructions were great and the repair only took 15 mins. Before I found the PartSelect website I called the dealer who we bought the stove from and they wanted $ 250 for the repair. I went on the PartSelect Website and received the parts within 2 days.
Total cost $ 59.65 thru PartSelect. Thanks PartSelect--Great service and Great website

well first off I repair commercial HVAC equipment for a major drug company so I think I've done it all.I thought it cant be much different than any burner assembly.I made it harder than it had to be,anyone can do this.I removed lots of unneccessary things.Let me help you only take out the drawer on bottom of stove.so I started on top and worked my way down.save time and open the stove to were the door stops then have faith and give a good yank.this will remove the door,dont be afraid it will go right back on those two hinges easy.now that this is out of the way remove the bottom plate that covers the burner assembly (2 screws)in back pull it out then you see the igniter.as I said before with drawer pulled out remove the 2 1/4"nuts screws holding it up then from bottom.Unplug this stove then remove the 2 places its plugged in to.after you remove this there are 2 screws that hold it into the igniter remove them .cut the wires with enough room to re use the plug ends.strip the wires and use the wire nuts that they provide then put back together with new wires on new igniter then.re attach.put everything back together in the reverse order you took them apart.plug in stove and see the igniter light up again and light stove.do not call repairman you can do this.save your money for you its bad enough you have to buy anything else.

First I disconnected power, then removed two screws from igniter & cliped two wires. Then installed new igniter & with the wire nuts supplied refastened to supply lines in oven.
PartSelect makes repairs quick & easy. It just takes a little smarts on your part.

removed oven door, removed drawer under oven, removed three screws holding hinge assembly, unhooked spring from hinge arm, inserted new hinge arm, attached spring, positioned hinge assembly and replaced screws, reinstalled drawer beneath oven being certain that no pot handles interfere with the hinge spring loaded arm, reinstall oven door.

Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with the new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.

first open oven door a couple inches and slide door up off hinges, then removed storage drawer to gain access to hinge spring, remove hinge spring with pliers noting which hole spring was attached in.then remove three screws from hinge and installed new hinge put three screws in attached spring back and put storage drawer in and oven door back on.

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

Go to utube videos for this are there