REX3514RQ1 Roper Dryer - Instructions

The repair was simple, and easy. And would be for any of the parts related to the issue of "no heat" or "not enough heat", however I had never used a multimeter before, and the learning curve was not simple. I ended up ordering a total of four parts, three of which weren't needed in order to perform this repair. Replacing the defective part was very easy. I wish I had been able to find better instructions on the internet or the Partselect website on how to use a mulitmeter to diagnose which part was broken. This would have saved me a couple of days waiting for the correct parts and hours of internet searching for clear instructions. It turned out that the main issue was that some of the parts needed to be checked for continuity and some for resistance. Not knowing which meant a lot of trial and error before I was able to figure out which part was broken. In fact, I really was only able to figure it out AFTER i had the new parts and was able to test the new ones next to the ones in the dryer and see which didn't read the same on the multimeter.

Upon receiving the parts from Parts Select I reviewed the contents of the package and then compared with what i had ordered. I then reviewed the video to locate the part and to ensure correct dis-assembly and installation. I had no problem with the new installation once I sorted out the wiring. Th PS video for this model describes and shows three red or orange wires coming for the harness two standard and on e thin wire which goes to the thermal cut-off. In my dryer this orange or red wire was actually bland white striped. I called PS who suggested I call Whirlpool who also could not help and insisted that this model had an orange wire where I was describing it as black, the concern was was that with this new thermal cut-off wires had to be cut and fitted with new ends to accommodate a change in design. I therefore did a little temporary wiring t before I cut any wires to ensure my assessment was correct. I was then able to cut the black and white wire fit it with a new end and plug it into the double connector that was now fitted to the jumper cable. I the connected the double connector to the thermal cut-off and tested the dryer for heat. I re-fitted the back panel and re-positioned the dryer to present everything is working satisfactorily. I would comment that someone needs to check why my dryer had a black and whit cable coming from the harness when both Whirlpool and the PS video show it as orange/red.

replaced fuse great website

We got this dryer from my F-I-L after they had to enter an elderly home. My F-I-L was a modern Tim-Tool-Man-Tyler. He had removed most of the protections and installed a 392 Thermal cut off, I guess he wanted to dry his cloths in 30 seconds or less. I was not aware of this, and used the dryer. Yes you guessed it, we sat it for a 30 minute cycle and it blew the cut-off and melted the wiring. I am a degree/certified computer tech so I fixed it myself, but I hate 220 electricity. Need less to say I checked with this site for the OEM parts and they pointed me in the correct direction. I did have to remake some of the wires since they were crisp, but it all went well and it was easy enough. The lesson, companies install OEM parts for a GOOD reason, best always to follow the makers directions.

As per online video instruction. Easy as pie...

unhinged top panel. removed front panel. installed belt and reinstalled front and top panel.

Got the part in 2 days, fixed it. Thanks

watched the video. Removed old part, installed new one - as per video.pluged it back in and started drying clothes again!

Ordered a thermal fuse . Very fast service (24 hrs)put the fuse in and is now working again

Using a stiff putty knife I depressed the clips that hold the top down. I loosened the screws at the lower edge of the front panel and removed the two 5/16 head screws that hold the front on. I unplugged the door switch and lifted the front off the lower screws. I removed the drum and the broken belt. I replaced the rear rollers after applying some dry lube to the shafts and replaced the tension spring and rolled. I replaced the drum and belt and attached the belt to the small pulley on the motor. Then checked the rear gasket felt and reinstalled the front cover and the top.

After removing the front of the dryer it was evident that the blower boss had broken where the motor shaft comes through and is attached. I removed a few more parts to make the blower more accessible and removed it. I then machined a new boss and attached it to the blower and reinstalled it.I then did a quick continuity check on the three thermostats since the dryer was already apart.I discovered one was faulty and ordered a new one from you.That repair took all of five minutes.The irony of the whole thing is that while I was ordering the thermostat from you,I asked out of curiosity,if the blower was still available. As it turns out it still is but the new machined part worked out great and the dryer was back up and running in no time.

Thanks again,
Dave

You guess that it is the heating element. They are like a light bulb, they do fail. I took the back off the dryer and removed the heater element. There is a temperature switch that needs to be removed. Examining the element, you could see a break in the element wire. That part was broken. The repair went smooth and the replacement heater assembly looked the same as the old one in design. I had to reset the dryer control and the dryer is good again.

I watched the video provided first to get an idea of how it should go. The dryer I have had a different kind of door, so those instructions didn't apply. You probably don't want to publish the way I ended up fixing it, but it did work eventually. Saved me over $500!! Thank you!

Took back panel off raised and removed the top lid w/o taking any wires off. One electrical plug on top had to be unplug, two screws holding the front cover removed. Front cover came off. Removed the belt then removed the drum. Once the drum was out it was RR the rollers. I put A dab of grease on the little shafts. I should have replaced the idler pulley. But oh well. It was still ok. Put on the new belt and reversed the procedure.And now no more thump, thump. It took alittle long because I vacuumed everything in the back and underneath. no spare parts left

Watched a video on utube and realized how easy this looked, took my dryer apart to see the belt broken in half and the idler pulley in pieces. Found Partselect on the internet and ordered my parts. Partselect was awsome, website was easy to navigate, ordered my parts and they were at my house the very next day and were the correct parts. Cleaned all the lint and dust out of the inside of my machine, installed new parts and put it back together. Works great and is still running strong. A service call, plus parts (with thier mark up) could have easily been $150.00 - $200.00 dollars. this repair was complete in about an hour and only cost me $37.50