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Oven would start to heat then quit,checked the temperature sensor with ohm meter after cool down reading about 1100 ohms. I cleaned connection tried it again seemed to work well but quit again in just few days.
Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes OEM parts plug in same, works great
The part I ordered has 5 connections and the part to be replaced has 7 connections. I had to ask a friend who is expert in electrical wiring to help.
My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections. Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from. The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts. Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.
unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!
Replcement of inner door glass which had shattered
Removed the door from the range, disassembled the door, removed all broken glass fragments, installed the new glass, reassembled the door and reinstalled the door into the range. Straightforward and easy. Keep track of which screws go where and it is a breeze.
Turn off circuit breaker Open oven remove two oven racks Position flash light Remove two Phillips head screws that hold the element in place Gently slide out element until you locate the two small wires Gently Detach the two small wires from the back of the burned out element Position the new element in the bottom of the oven and attach the two small wires to the back of the new element Gently slide the element back in place and replace the two Phillips screws that hold the element in place Make certain the new element is lying flat on the bottom of the oven Replace the two oven racks Turn on the circuit breakers and test the oven
Remove the lower bake element by removing the 2 retaining screws that secure the element to the inside oven back. Carefully slide the element out. There are 2 wires attached to the terminals of the element. While removing be careful to not pull the insulation out with the wiring. Attach the wires to the terminals of the new element and reinstall in reverse order.
Dual burner would only work on high and only the large burner worked
Replaced the dual infinite switch behind the panel. The wires were easily matched, even though the switch looked a little different. Works perfectly now.