Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Banging during spin cycle
The installation was very easy and took me 45 minutes to complete by myself. I put the washer on two cinder blocks and then removed the lid. I started with the suspension rods that were closest to me and they were really easy to exchange. When I got to the rods in the back they were a little more difficult because there was more tension with the new rods installed. I used the old rods to hook and pull the new rods into place and it was overall very easy.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
washer wasn't spinning after rinsing but the motor was running
I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job
Watched video from partselect and it was on the money. Removed a few screws and tilted the lid. (after unplugging). Pulled it out from wall and tilted machine to have access to bottom. Had grandson reach from underneath and pull the rods out and inserted the new ones. Work great now. My wife is happy and I saved about $600 because I didn't have to buy a new one.
I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
The washer would not only shake, but sound like a mule was kicking the side of unit!
I watched the PartsSelect video. I was hoping for the tub with the slots in the tub mounts, but mine didn't have them, so I had to lay it down on its back. The only thing I did that was not in the video was I placed a 2" thick closed cell foam knee pad I had on hand between the tub and the back of the housing. When I laid it down, the tub was elevated by 2". This made reaching the two rear rods a little easy. It seems that there would be a more robust way to achieve the dampening affect, but I guess this is cost effective.
It's strange that I searched for my issue several times and only saw recommendations to level the washer. It was level. Then one day I ran across the suspension rod resolution. It didn't do it on every load, but after a year of my wife nagging me and threatening to get a new washer, I finally fixed it. The biggest issue is just logistics in a condo hallway and a little leaking water. I also replaced my hoses. Should be in good shape until the next thing.....
Removed belt cover from bottom of the transmission , remove old belt, clean the pulleys ,and re install new belt. The new belt fits tighter so it did a few time to get the belt fully seated. Re install belt cover.
I watched the instructions on line, and followed them. Completed the parts change with out any problems, but that wasn't everything I had to do to make the washer to work again. I had to clear all the fault codes that were on the machine. Then the washer started working in all the cycles.