Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.
I followed the online instructions and found it remarkably easy. I saved a lot of money and will certainly use PartSelect in the future! Washer works like new again!
I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.
During the Spin cycle the washer was noisy and moved around
I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish. I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained. Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet . Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them. Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine. Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver. Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub . Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench. Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place . Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) . Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut. Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart. Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear. Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
My Maytag MVWP576KW0 washing machine failed to start. No LED's were lit and unable to launch diagnostic mode. Diagnostic LED on PCB itself was not on.
First you should take the proper safety precautions. Disconnect the appliance from the source of power and ensure you are grounded to avoid any potential hazards.
Check if any breakers flipped and if not, test the VAC from the outlet using a multimeter. If the breaker was not flipped and you are seeing 120-125 VAC from the outlet, proceed to next steps.
Disconnect appliance from source of power. Using a Torx security bit, unscrew the top left and right screws on the overlay cover. Lift overlay cover up and out to expose the PCB and connectors. Plug the appliance back into a source of power and check if the diagnostic LED on the PCB is on or off. If off, you will most likely need to replace the main control. At this point, take a picture of the main control and take note of where everything is plugged in.
Using a multimeter on VAC setting, test the incoming power supply to see if it matches what you tested on the outlet. If you are seeing 120-125 VAC the main control is getting power but a component or numerous components may have failed. If you have not repaired PCB components, it would be best to replace the entire control.
Disconnect power once again. Disconnect all connectors and pressure hose. Move those around so you have ample room to remove the main control. Unscrew the fastener screws holding the main control in place using a socket wrench. Lift main control up and slightly to the left. Place new main control into the unit and insert the screws you just removed. Be sure that the selector knob rod on the backside of the main control matches the position of the old main control or you may run into issues getting the new main control set in place.
Reconnect all connectors and the pressure hose following the picture you took previously. Push in enough where you hear the fasteners click. Check all wiring to ensure everything is connected properly and nothing became dislodged. Put the overlay cover back onto the console and insert the Torx security screws. Plug machine into power source and turn the selector knob to see if the LEDs light up. If so, you now have a functioning washing machine! Anytime you are working on an appliance you should always consult the service technicians guide located within the machine itself. The location will vary by manufacturer but on this unit it was behind the front panel. It requires you to take apart the machine to a certain extent. That allows you to find the proper diagnostic testing methods that should be followed prior to running a load.
For this model you can place the cycle selector knob at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate left, rotate right, rotate right, rotate left, rotate right. That will enter diagnostic mode and all status LED's will activate except for lid locked. This has to be done fairly quick otherwise you will not enter diagnostic mode. Now we need to enter calibration mode which is indicated by only having the rinse LED activated. Turn the cycle selector knob left and then right which will select different diagnostic tests until you land on the calibration mode test. Once there you can press that start button to begin the calibration. Let it run through the full test and now you are ready to begin running regular loads.
I popped the dispenser cap off, pulled off the plastic cover that sits on top of the agitator directional cogs assembly, and used a socket wrench with 2 extensions on it to unscrew the nut holding the assembly in place. I misplaced my socket screwdriver and rather than try to buy a nutdriver that matched the size, I just bought a little 3/8" socket extension kit (I needed about 8" of length to be able to use a normal socket wrench). My hands are pretty big so I just had to use pliers to pull the agitator cogs assembly out. Next I just turned the assembly upside down, slipped the plastic ring off that holds the cogs in place, and put the new cogs in place of the old ones. Reassembly was just as easy. The job took about 15 minutes, and once everything was back together the agitator worked like it was brand new.
After the wife held the phone to the washer so I could hear the horrendous noise it was making. And I screaming at her "shut it off, shut it off!' I came home and took the agitator apart, and found the directional dogs worn out. Went to the computer and easily ordered new parts, which came very quickly. I took off the agitator with a long extension and socket, put in the new dogs and reversed for installation. Told the wife get back to doing the laundry!
Removed top cap of agitator and pulled out the inner cap. Spread a pair of needle nose pliers and placed them in square holes on each side of nylon fitting. Unscrewed nylon fitting and removed top half of agitator. Replaced directional cogs/dog ears and put agitater back together. Works like new. Easy fix.
PS Received parts in 72 hours. $10.00 bucks and never left the house.
First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws. Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.
Just watched the video. Take from a 63 year old. Who never fixed a washer. Thx a lot for the video it saved me a lot of money being on a fix income. and it was less than $ 10 that was included shipping.
